R1200RS owner comments

[Richard230]

On my test ride yesterday I found it very difficult to tell how close I was to our 30mph limit - the figures at the bottom end of the dial are very congested and too small for my old eyes, far harder to see than on the GT - a nice big MPH display sounds very useful to me!

You can get a large digital speed display as option 2 on the computer screen. All it takes is a couple of clicks of the lower left button. However, in that mode you loose a lot of potentially useful information, including the tachometer. It is a mystery to me why BMW didn't provide a analog tach and a digital speedometer, instead of the other way around. I too have some difficulty reading the small numbers on the speedometer and tend to just go with the traffic flow when riding on the freeway. As long as someone is traveling faster than I am, I figure that I should be OK - and there always seems to be someone traveling faster than me and well over the speed limit.

[Yoda]

Maybe a "firmware update" later on could solve the issue ? The problem over here is not so much motorway (freeway) riding, as you say most car drivers seem to have no qualms about exceeding the speed limit quite substantially, it's that our towns are festooned with fixed speed cameras and mobile radar units. Having both mph and kph gradations on the same, small, analogue display doesn't help either.

[Richard230]

Maybe a "firmware update" later on could solve the issue ? The problem over here is not so much motorway (freeway) riding, as you say most car drivers seem to have no qualms about exceeding the speed limit quite substantially, it's that our towns are festooned with fixed speed cameras and mobile radar units. Having both mph and kph gradations on the same, small, analogue display doesn't help either.

San Francisco is planning on lowering all of their in-city speed limits by 10 mph and also is trying to get state approval for the installation of automatic speed camera ticket dispensers like you have in Europe. They naturally say it is for "safety" reasons, but everyone really knows that it is all about collecting more money, especially from automobile-driving visitors. San Francisco has an insatiable desire for more tax income as they have an unlimited number of ideas on how to spend everyone else's money.

[TomCT]

For you guys having trouble reading the display: Your bike was likely delivered with "Brightness" set to 0 which is the "Normal" setting. If you go into SETUP, this can be changed, range is 0 to 5. I set mine to 3 and it made a huge difference. See pages 57 and 58 of the US manual if you need help finding SETUP and changing the values.

[Richard230]

I have my brightness set to level 4, which helped a lot, but I also wear a dark tinted face shield most of the time that doesn't help any. Looks good at night, though.

[Alfa13]

Congratulations Alf on your new RS ! I looked at them at Southbank a couple of weeks ago, they had a demo bike for immediate sale, but I was very,very strong.....
Don't forget to get your ST's new owner to get onto this forum and keep in touch, love to check out the new beast when it turns up. Cheers, Ian A.

Thanks Ian. I had a phone call from Southbank a couple of weeks ago offering me the same bike.
I didn't think it was worth the price considering it was a demo and only about $700 cheaper than a new one. I just wasn't happy with the thought of someone giving it a hiding!

I will be picking my mine up on the 5th, just waiting on the cheque to clear from my ST that I sold.

I'll give you an update once I get it.

[Yoda]

Avidly reading the rider's manual online whilst awaiting my new steed - OK I admit I'm stumped, what are "BC Basic" and "BC Pro" modes? I expect I'm going to kick myself but somebody please enlighten me...

[Richard230]

Avidly reading the rider's manual online whilst awaiting my new steed - OK I admit I'm stumped, what are "BC Basic" and "BC Pro" modes? I expect I'm going to kick myself but somebody please enlighten me...

I think "BC Pro" means you paid extra for something you probably don't need. If you really want to be confused check out the computer BC Pro display section, starting on page 58. I don't know what BC stands for but apparently it has something to do with the instrument display and the Pro lets you mess with the information so that you end up with a lot of garbage that you don't really want to see but can't seem to get rid of. I think it is a German thing designed to confuse old farts.

[Yoda]

Well I'm both confused and an old fart I guess the US manual is a bit different to the international English as page 58 in mine deals with the daytime running light. However on page 63 it helpfully states that for BC you can toggle between BC Pro and BC Basic. Bavarian Confusion? Battery Condition? Badass Cornering?

[Richard230]

Well I'm both confused and an old fart I guess the US manual is a bit different to the international English as page 58 in mine deals with the daytime running light. However on page 63 it helpfully states that for BC you can toggle between BC Pro and BC Basic. Bavarian Confusion? Battery Condition? Badass Cornering?

My money's on Bavarian Confusion, with the BC Pro including an extra helping of confusion. It is interesting that your international English version of the owner's manual has more pages than ours. I wonder what they left out when they removed those extra 5 pages. Would that be legal warnings or does the EU version of the RS get something that we don't that requires an additional 5 pages of explanation?

[Richard230]

I just returned from having my 600-mile break-in service performed. Here is the damage in USD:

Copper crush ring: $1.10; Gasket ring: $1.00; Gear oil 75W90, synthetic, 7 oz: $9.95; Oil filter K13S, GT: $16.95; O/R Rear end drain R12G: $1.75; 5W40 Advantec Ultimate oil, 4 qts: $55.80;
Hazardous materials charge: $3.00; Labor (number of hours or hourly rate unspecified, but the bike was in at 9 and out at 10): $156.65; State sales tax: $7.84; for a grand total of: $254.04.

[Richard230]

After I returned home from my dealership, I checked the oil level and could not see the top of the oil in the sight glass. So I loosened the drain plug and was able to remove a full quart of oil from the crankcase before the level reached the mid point on the glass. I can only assume that the technician that serviced my bike was in a rush and didn't allow the bike's oil to fully drain. The book says to use 4 quarts of oil with an oil and filter change and I am sure that is what they put into the engine. I have a friend who recently had his R12R serviced and the same thing happened to him. He also had to drain a quart from the sump to get the proper level in the sight glass. That was why I went out of my way to check the level when I returned home. You check the oil by placing the fully-warmed-up bike on the side stand, let it sit for 5 minutes and then put it on the centerstand (or hold it upright) on a level surface to check the oil level. My guess is that to completely drain the sump you probably have to tilt the bike back and forth and let it sit for a while. This is something that technicians at a dealership probably don't have the time to do. Something to check for yourself after having your bike serviced.

[DWS]

That's bad form ... I guess that you'll be changing your own oil from now on ...

[Alfa13]

Thanks for the heads up Richard.

Did you tell the service division about it?

[Yoda]

Re BC, I knew I should have RTFM - all becomes clear(ish) on pages 65-66.

Worrying about that oil level Richard, I slightly over-filled my ST once and spent about an hour sucking oil out with a syringe and a bit of plastic tubing...

[Richard230]

Re BC, I knew I should have RTFM - all becomes clear(ish) on pages 65-66.

Worrying about that oil level Richard, I slightly over-filled my ST once and spent about an hour sucking oil out with a syringe and a bit of plastic tubing...

There is no way you are going to suck any oil out of the boxer engines. What I did was to loosen the oil drain plug and let the cold drain out and then screwed the plug back into the drain hole while the oil was draining out into a clean pan. It wasn't too hard to reinstall the plug while the oil was flowing out, but I did drain out more than necessary before I got the plug threads to hook up with the threads in the sump. So I just dumped the oil in the drain pan back into the engine until the level was correct. Naturally, the engine was cold at the time and I will have to double-check the level today after I heat the engine up and find a level spot to park. I guessed at the tightening torque of the drain plug to 30 nm, which seemed to work for all of my previous BMW's. I might add that loosening the drain plug was easy to do with a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. The drain plug is about the size of the one in the F800-series engine.

Here is an observation: I checked my oil level with the engine hot just as the owner's manual said to do and the level was exactly the same as when the engine was cold. Both checks were performed on the center stand with the bike parked on my garage floor. The level showed exactly in the middle of the bulls eye of the sight glass both times.

In a further update: I bought an "updateable" BMW DVD Service Manual for the K5x models. Unfortunately the available updates do not yet include the R12R or the R12RS versions. However it does include the R12RT and the tightening torque for that LC engine is 42 Nm for the oil drain plug and 11 Nm for the oil filter.

[Richard230]

My RS just has two modes of suspension damping, "Road" and "Dynamic". Today I gave Dynamic a try and didn't notice a big difference in damping performance. Certainly it was nothing like the difference between the "soft", "normal" and "hard" modes of the ESA on my 2007 R12R. I could never use "hard" on that bike as it would just bounce the wheels off of the pavement when it hit a decent bump. Perhaps the active ESA of the RS makes it unnecessary to have hard damping. I did notice that the bike seemed to steer more accurately when going around tight corners and seemed a little more composed while riding on back roads, but the difference just wasn't very dramatic (or dynamic).

My RS only has two engine power modes. "Rain" and "Road". I tried the "Rain" mode today and noticed a softness in the power delivery, but it didn't seem to be anything dramatic. However, unless it is actually raining or the pavement is slippery, I do think I will keep the power in the "Road" mode all of the time. I was told by my dealer that later RS models should have a "Dynamic" mode but the early models do not have this feature.

[Scorch]

Mine has the Dynamic mode, but I haven't tried it out yet, as I haven't been riding on the type of road where it might suit the more dynamic power delivery.
I have switched between Rain and Road a few times, though, and the difference is very noticeable, particularly in how the DTC intervenes when leaned over and accelerating out of corners. It's actually raining today, so I kept it in Rain mode all the way in to the office. No dramas. I also noticed the DTC light flashing in once instance where I (deliberately) accelerated over a drain cover, so you can see that it's working for you. Very cool!

In the manual, one of the things that will be different in the Dynamic riding mode is that it will allow you to pull power wheelies (to some extent). Not that I'm going to be trying that, but it's interesting that it's explicitly mentioned.

[Alfa13]

Well the rain had stopped and I was finally able to take my RS for a short 100K ride.
Compared to my 800ST, as many other have said, on the road the weight feels no heavier. (I did notice the weight difference when pushing her around in the garage). However, that's about the only thing that can be compared. On the highway the RS is much more stable, smooth and the extra HP is very noticeable. While my ride today was reasonably short, I did manage to find a good section of challenging twisties. The bike handled the damp corners with ease and to me felt very nimble and light around some tight corners. I did not feel the need to overwork to get her through the corners and it felt more comfortable than my ST. I had the suspension set on Road and single rider which suited my riding style. More next time as I really start to get to know her.
And yes I also like this forum.

[tarless]

Mine's coming on saturday. I can't wait. If I don't like it it's all your guys fault!

[Mokkybear]

My R1200R should be available Saturday too. If I don't like it, lock me up (I've lost my marbles).

[tarless]

Mokky even if you do like it you still lost your marbles!
Awesome. Saturday will be ride report day! I'm psyched and have no marbles left!!!

[de100kb]

After I returned home from my dealership, I checked the oil level and could not see the top of the oil in the sight glass. So I loosened the drain plug and was able to remove a full quart of oil from the crankcase before the level reached the mid point on the glass. I can only assume that the technician that serviced my bike was in a rush and didn't allow the bike's oil to fully drain. The book says to use 4 quarts of oil with an oil and filter change and I am sure that is what they put into the engine. I have a friend who recently had his R12R serviced and the same thing happened to him. He also had to drain a quart from the sump to get the proper level in the sight glass. That was why I went out of my way to check the level when I returned home. You check the oil by placing the fully-warmed-up bike on the side stand, let it sit for 5 minutes and then put it on the centerstand (or hold it upright) on a level surface to check the oil level. My guess is that to completely drain the sump you probably have to tilt the bike back and forth and let it sit for a while. This is something that technicians at a dealership probably don't have the time to do. Something to check for yourself after having your bike serviced.

I do believe the dealer was doing it right.

My manual says the top of the glass is max level and the bottom is the minimal level necessary. So if a tech does the procedure properly the oil should be at the top of the sight glass and that's how my dealer does it too.

Once the oil level drops to about the bottom of the glass I throw in half a liter of fresh Motorex which brings the level back up to the halfway point.

[Richard230]

Karim, the oil level was way over the top of the sight glass when I arrived home. Word on the internet is that the bike shifts better when the oil level is right in the middle of the glass, as mine is right now. There is no indication of any oil consumption so far. I'll keep an eye on the level though.

[TelemarkTumalo]

I hear your Richard. I'm constantly appalled by shops that overfill the oil. How can they possibly not get this right? I can only assume that they are filling from a large drum of oil and just guesstimate the amount needed. By the time they stop, they have overfilled, put the cap back on and call it good. No excuses.... sloppy and lazy. If they can't get this simple maintenance item right, how can I have confidence in them doing something technically challenging?

[Richard230]

I hear your Richard. I'm constantly appalled by shops that overfill the oil. How can they possibly not get this right? I can only assume that they are filling from a large drum of oil and just guesstimate the amount needed. By the time they stop, they have overfilled, put the cap back on and call it good. No excuses.... sloppy and lazy. If they can't get this simple maintenance item right, how can I have confidence in them doing something technically challenging?

It is my belief that the technicians at my shop are so rushed by their service department manager, or the "piece-work" method of payment. that they just don't take enough time to fully drain the old oil out of the bike before putting in the specified 4-quarts of new oil. I know my bike was pushed into the shop for its 600-mile service and back out again in under 60 minutes, while I was charged 1.25 hours of labor for the work (based upon their $120 labor charge). And that included the time it took to put the bike up on the lift and fill out the paperwork upon completion of the job. When I drain my oil I usually give it about 30 minutes to fully drain and tilt the bike back and forth to remove all of the old oil.

I am not sure if they are still getting their oil out of a 55-gallon drum anymore. Every time I go into the shop they seem to be using a new brand of oil and I would think that the specialized expensive synthetic motorcycle oil that they claim to use is more likely sold in liter bottles than 55-gallon drums.

[hound]

Does anyone have the DRL on their RS? I went through the "build your own" on BMW's website but didn't see the option anywhere in there to add the daytime running light (vertical LED strip between the headlights)

Is it part of a certain package?

[Richard230]

Does anyone have the DRL on their RS? I went through the "build your own" on BMW's website but didn't see the option anywhere in there to add the daytime running light (vertical LED strip between the headlights)

Is it part of a certain package?

It is my understanding that the DRL LED lights are only available on Euro models. Bikes shipped to the U.S, do not have them, probably because they have not been approved by the U.S. DOT. They are not even an option on our RS models.

[hound]

It is my understanding that the DRL LED lights are only available on Euro models. Bikes shipped to the U.S, do not have them, probably because they have not been approved by the U.S. DOT. They are not even an option on our RS models.

Hmm, how easy is it to remove that center section? I imagine it couldn't be too hard to swap them and BMW being BMW, I would bet the wiring and plug already there just waiting.

[Richard230]

Hmm, how easy is it to remove that center section? I imagine it couldn't be too hard to swap them and BMW being BMW, I would bet the wiring and plug already there just waiting.

I wouldn't have a clue how hard it is to remove the RS front fairing section. But this may help: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...4&rnd=07012015

That is a link to the Max BMW Motorcycles parts fiche for the new RS.

[tarless]

JUst got home with it. I couldn't love it more. It does everything I want.

[Scorch]

Did you get lost on the way home and end up going the long way? It seems to happen a lot with new BMWs...

Congrats!

[tarless]

A little detour through the hills
Thanks!

[TelemarkTumalo]

Congrats Anthony. Post us some pics between polishes!

[tarless]

I don't have many good pictures thanks for it being so sunny yesterday I couldn't see my freakin phone becuase of glare. She need a wash already!

[Mokkybear]

Mokky even if you do like it you still lost your marbles!
Awesome. Saturday will be ride report day! I'm psyched and have no marbles left!!!

Apologies for the lack of report on Saturday. In between other things, I had to actually ride the new bike!

It's been 37 seven years since I bought a new bike, so I underestimated the time required to take delivery - back then, I paid the salesman, he wrote the receipt, the staff loaded the crate containing my new Ducati SS 900 onto my mate's ute, and we were away. This time, the paperwork was more voluminous and I reckon the dealer spent about 40 minutes explaining the bike's functions. Then there was the obligatory photo opportunity. Even though I wasn't trading it (going to sell privately) I rode the F800 to the dealership, with my adult son who was visiting for the weekend - my wife was still at Yoga.

First time in the saddle felt a bit awkward through unfamiliarity and also because I had Luke on the back. It was a short ride home, but enough to feel the urge of the 50% extra torque (and give Luke workout hanging on ...). Returning later to pick up the F800, it felt like a pair of old, comfortable slippers by comparison - instantly familiar and the perfect fit. 300 km later around the Canberra district's usual roads (Cotter, Corin etc) has sorted that, and I feel quite at home on the Panzer, even to the extent of mastering some of the extensive menus ...

Suspension is quite a bit tauter than the F800, even on Road (rather than Dynamic) setting, although it appears to have become a little more supple with distance. Being a 25-30 kg heavier, and with quite a bit of trail, it isn't as sensitive to body position as the F800 when cornering, but with its wide 'bars, it just goes where you point it, and confidently too. Going quickly on the F800 for me is all about smooth riding and keeping up momentum, careful body positioning and getting on the throttle early out of a corner. The R12 can be ridden like a Boss - want to go quicker? Sure, just roll on the quick action throttle a bit wherever and whenever you want. You can give it as much throttle as you choose when cranked over exiting a corner, even with the pillion-in-a-million on board, knowing the traction control will do its thing. Overtakes don't need to be planned- just thought about. Effortless grunt - maybe I'll become a lazy rider in my dotage, relying on the engine's torque at any revs and the bike's confident handling/stability. Clutch and RBW throttle are both light, the latter having short travel, so it's very easy to find yourself using a fair bit of throttle. Oh well - I do need to vary the load during the running in period ...

The bike certainly has some road presence - even the stock Auspuffanlage emits a delightfully sonorous note that is loud enough to be noticeable to the rider, but not annoying. Need to get it past the 1000 km service before I can use full throttle and >5000 rpm, although with the quick action throttle, I may have strayed near full throttle at times aleady.

The reflection of the headlight (high beam in particular) off the inside of the small screen is annoying - I'm already thinking about solutions. The small screen works very well though, giving about the same protection height-wise as the stock ST screen, but presumably not quite the width (the difference isn't obvious) - I have the high seat and am 183 cm. The seat height is a tad lower than my stock ST, but that has 8mm more preload on the front forks than stock (Ricor Intiminators with 5 mm shorter spacers). It is wider, though, so doesn't feel shorter. I do like how the high seat isn't as scalloped as the stock seat; the latter tends to force you to a single seating position, whereas the high seat allows you to choose a position fore or aft to suit. I've found this same problem with the current Ducati range when I've been kicking tyres (whereas the earlier Monsters for example would have you sliding forward onto the tank, crushing manly bits - that's one reason I've never considered them a real man's bike ). The Sport seat is even flatter, but is also narrower, so presumably less comfortable.

I took the pillion in a million for a ride on Sunday and she gave the bike the big . I really lashed out and spent the extra $75 on the Comfort pillion seat (as a thoughtful husband should). While the cushion is deeper, the padding is still pretty firm, so for a long trip, we'll probably still use the Airhawk for her.

Am I happy with it? Well, is the Pope a Catholic? Do bears do it in the woods?

[Scorch]

Congrats, mate. Many happy miles to you and yours

[Discflight]

Stoked for you Mokky! It looks like it suits real well...

[Mokkybear]

Suits me very well, thanks Donnie.

[tarless]

I'm fully convinced the RS, or the R if they stop making the RS, is the only bike(s) for me. I'm in absolute amazement how this bike handles. ON paper it sounds like it would totally suck in the corners, given the wheelbase, weight, rake an trail. But it's actually far better than my Ninja was and almost as good as my Speed Triple R was. Actually it holds a line better than the S3 and is on rails, whereas the S3 would bounce out of line and/or bounce upright, as well as being twitchy. It just had the edge of being a drop more flicakble do to its much smaller size and weight, but not that much. I've ridden an R1200R and it being a little lighter and shorter of wheelbase handles even better. Again, on paper they shouldn't handle exceptionally, but somehow they do. I'm in utter amazement and quite pleased as I thought I'd being giving up the dexterity and agility in the twisties that I've grown used to, but I have not at all. It's actually and improvement over the other two bikes. These things just handle great and they have that highway stability for long trips.
Either way I'm an R1200 guy for life, be it the RS or just the R. If I had to get an R I'd just swap the bars out for something lower and and a fly screen. No biggie. Power, speed, agility, comfort, safety, luggage, all the gadgets, oh yeah, looks; it covers all bases.

[Richard230]

Here are my personal primary complaints about my RS so far: it feels heavy when being pushed around; it is tough to get off of the centerstand; the side stand is too long and makes the bike stand too upright for good stability in the wind or on uneven ground; only one headlight works on low beam; I would have much preferred an analog tachometer and a digital speedometer (instead of the current other-way-around); the computer display requires too much scrolling to get from one piece of information that you want to see to another one; and (my biggest irritation) the protection provided by the front and rear "fenders" are very minimal and just riding over a damp road will leave both you and the bike covered with water and mud spots (heaven help you if you ride through any fresh tar). The basic bike is just great, but some of the unique features provided by BMW are just not to my taste - as usual.

BMW always seems to want the owner to adapt to the bike rather than the bike being comfortable to the owner. I guess it is a German thing.

[tarless]

Here are my personal primary complaints about my RS so far: it feels heavy when being pushed around; it is tough to get off of the centerstand; the side stand is too long and makes the bike stand too upright for good stability in the wind or on uneven ground; only one headlight works on low beam; I would have much preferred an analog tachometer and a digital speedometer (instead of the current other-way-around); the computer display requires too much scrolling to get from one piece of information that you want to see to another one; and (my biggest irritation) the protection provided by the front and rear "fenders" are very minimal and just riding over a damp road will leave both you and the bike covered with water and mud spots (heaven help you if you ride through any fresh tar). The basic bike is just great, but some of the unique features provided by BMW are just not to my taste - as usual.

BMW always seems to want the owner to adapt to the bike rather than the bike being comfortable to the owner. I guess it is a German thing.

I agree, the stand is way too long. Scares me. I have heard the fenders are counter productive but I haven't been out in the rain yet but I'm sure that would bug me too. I too thing the tach and speedo are backwards. As to the weight, I'm fine with it. All things I can live with. The stand is definitely an issue but I plan on using the center stand much more.

[Yoda]

I've fitted an Ilmberger hugger and the "spray guard" from the GS, since BMW helpfully provided the holes for one. I don't think the latter looks particularly out of place - it's less obvious than the ones on some Dukes and, with the guard, the number plate and the hugger I have an almost complete rear mudguard Don't know how (in)effective these will be but off on a tour to south west France tomorrow so I may find out (heavy rain here today and more forecast for my setting off tomorrow). I had a Pyramid plastics extender on the front but found it was touching the tyre so have taken it off.
I don't mind the speedo and tach now I have become used to them but I still have to dig the manual out when I want to make changes to the display settings

[tarless]

I've fitted an Ilmberger hugger and the "spray guard" from the GS, since BMW helpfully provided the holes for one. I don't think the latter looks particularly out of place - it's less obvious than the ones on some Dukes and, with the guard, the number plate and the hugger I have an almost complete rear mudguard Don't know how (in)effective these will be but off on a tour to south west France tomorrow so I may find out (heavy rain here today and more forecast for my setting off tomorrow). I had a Pyramid plastics extender on the front but found it was touching the tyre so have taken it off.
I don't mind the speedo and tach now I have become used to them but I still have to dig the manual out when I want to make changes to the display settings

Pics please!

[Scorch]

Yeah, I like the idea of the guard too. I have a hugger and mudsling and hub and fork crash protection, as well as cylinder guards (though my missus had already dropped it, so it was a case of shutting the barn door after the horse had already bolted). I keep meaning to get photos of everything, but the bike is currently filthy, so until it's had a good wash, I'm not showing anybody!

I also have a couple of paint protection stickers from Nippy Normans, but again, can't install those while the bike is all grubby.

Oh, and I also just ordered a Powerbronze tinted screen - half price because it was used for their photo shoot. Can't wait for that to arrive

[Yoda]

Here you (or rather I) go:-

[tarless]

Looks good. Thanks!

[Scorch]

Yoda, where did you get the spray guard thingy? I've had a look on ebay and the few I was able to find were really expensive.

[Richard230]

On the other hand: if you have as much hard luggage on your bike as Yoda does, you really don't need fenders or a "possum scraper" to keep road debris off of the rider and passenger.

[Loiner 1960]

Hi. Nippy Normans has the Imberger/Puig/Wunderlich rear hugger. They send it assembled and just needs 3 screws tightening and bolting with supplied ones to the swingarm. Hint if it is on the centre stand support the rear wheel as it will drop otherwise. Looks even better with GS hugger. The display I prefer in 0. If you have an Exclusive. Then there are 3 suspension modes. Dynamic Road and User. Three traction control Road Rain and Dynamic. When you select BC Pro then user mode you can select engine modes Dynamic Road or Rain. If all Dynamic select the suspension is less damped. The engine has a bark on downshifts and the traction control comes in later so the rear can slide. Engine mode Rain cuts power to 100bhp and slows the throttle response and redaction control is full on. Mode 1 display is a digital tacho for track days. Mode 2 is digital spwedo for touring.

BC Pro also has oil level check elapsed time running time temp engine temp two fuel ave running fuel volts date date of last service miles to next service fuel range. Loads to scroll through. All this can be viewed on BM Nav V if fitted using the scroll button on lhs .

I really enjoy riding and have started to scrape my toes lent over.