When things go worse and worse or how to turn an excellent bike into a nightmare..

[alevbas]

Hi,
I'm very happy and enthusiastic, since yesterday I had sometime to inspect carefully the oil leakage, I was referring to, before. Well, it seems that the oil is coming from the front left bolt of the valve cover (!) and goes down onto the front side of the motor to the head gaskets. This is why, I initially thought that either one of these were leaking, but hopefully this may not be the case. I can recall now that during the zipty installation, the head of this bolt was torn (stupid thin 8 mm hex) and could not be tighten properly....So, going ahead for a (thankfully) light surgery this weekend, in order to treat this illness...
The process of fitting and the actual performance of the steering damper, makes me start thinking of installing one on my big German lady (R1200GS '08) too. Just wondering whether I should go for a ready model specific solution (GPR V4) or start again scratching my head for a custom made solution. This is why I love my G450X, due to its rareness and lack of ready-to-fit accessories, it makes me think out of the box and come up with tricky and mind triggering solutions (successful or not). GS though, stands on the exact opposite side, it is such a commercially successful model, that you could find parts even in your local super market....

[alevbas]

Following my first unsuccessful diagnosis of the oil leakage, I even found a name for my rally bike. When this is completed (by the fitment of the safari tank), I will call it "Speed(yet no)brain" rally G450X...

[alevbas]

Hi there,
this weekend I tried to treat the illness and tightened the valve cover bolts. I still believe that the head gaskets are leaking though...After some short riding, I parked the bike and noticed the the upper gasket is somehow wet, but soon I'll figure it out. This caused me a small disappointment, but Ok, I may end up with getting the bike to a proper mechanic (find me one that asks for decent money) to give it a head & piston work. All the bad issues though (gaskets' failure, engine explosion) have a common basis; my attempt to install the zipty breather. Now the bike is running perfect, no issues, yet the idea that my bike carries this kind of, so as to call, defect (i.e. oil leakage) makes me unhappy and displeases me. Furthermore I changed the bulky dual USB socket with a nice red aluminium dual USB socket that shows the voltage of the battery, even if the cover is still on. This time, I connected this straight onto the battery's poles (with a 3A fuse), rather than on the spare 12V plug of the F2R Rallye POWER BOX, in order to have the socket available at all times and informs me on the voltage, not just only when I switch on the navi system switch (small stainless switch on the navi tower).

[gravelsurfer]

Hi Bil, regarding the steering damper I can definitely recommend the GPR V4. I have one on my G450 and my 1200GSA. They work extremely well and after 8+ years I have had no issues with either bike. The manufacturer offers servicing of the damping unit if required too. I’m not sure if you plan to run both front and rear Safari tanks but the front Safari tank interferes with the GPR damper, and I had to remove mine. I only ran the front tank for one event and couldn’t wait to get the GPR back on it. They’re a necessity for high speed rally in my opinion.
Cheers
Chris

[alevbas]

Hi Chris,
thanks for your advice regarding the GPR V4 and all other.
Ohlins damper is already installed on the G450X, I was wondering about the GS. Probably following your suggestion, I will go for the GPR V4 on the R12. It's a ready to fit product and actually, when it comes to the big Beemer, I prefer to go on the safe side. Does it make a remarkable improvement on the front end's performance? Cause it is already quite steady.
Moreover, I will only go for the rear safari tank on the G450. I do not prefer the front one, seems it results to loss of weight balance on the bike (this is something I read, not experienced myself), it will not allow me to have the damper, already installed, plus I do not need such a volume's increase. I believe 16L in total are quite satisfactory for my style of riding.

[gravelsurfer]

Hi Bill, yes the damper made a significant difference to my GS. I would rate it in the top three modifications I have done to that bike.... the other two being a Power Commander and the Wilbers suspension upgrade.
I’m glad to read you are not planning to use the front mounted Safari tank! In my experience the front tank effected the bike’s handling badly, but I barely noticed any difference with the rear tank mounted.
Cheers
Chris

[alevbas]

Hello to all
and Chris thanks for the info. A couple of questions to address. Does the installation of GPR V4 on the R1200GS, require any further modification? I'm asking this, because I've seen guys complaining that the throttle cables get quite stretched and it's possible that there is need to replace those with longer ones. Also for the G450X, does it worth to install a Power Commander or it only makes sense when this a accompanied by a autotune kit (which is a separate buy)?
In the meantime, I finally managed to modify the stand in order not to retract by its own. It was such a quick and easy fix, that I blame myself for not dealing with this before...I just bended the OEM metal bracket that the spring is attached to, so that this travels over the head of the stand's holding bolt (as I read somewhere in this forum). I also changed the latter with a thin headed torx bolt, instead of the allen head I used to have. My stand faces no issues with bending, however once and a while I only have to tighten this fixing bolt, cause this gets loose and less often, I need to replace it with a new one, since when fully unloosing the bolt, I notice that it is bended heavily. For this reason, I always use a triangle stand attached onto the rear axle, when the bike sits on the parking garage for a long period.

[gravelsurfer]

Hi Bill, I don’t recall any modifications being necessary when the GPR was fitted to my GS. I didn’t fit it, I had my mechanic do that as it was in for servicing anyway. I’ll check the throttle cable routing and let you know if it’s anything but standard.
On the G450 I had to re-route the throttle cables to allow for the nav tower. They now come up the left side of the airbox then cross over behind the steering head, not in front (behind headlight). The only problem with this is that when you turn the bars the cables can interfere with the setting dial on the GPR. To avoid this problem I simply zip tied the cables away from the GPR.... “bush mechanics” but it works!

Cheers
Chris

[alevbas]

Hi guys,
for the G450X, does it worth to install a Power Commander or it only makes sense when this a accompanied by a autotune kit (which is a separate buy)?
In the meantime, I got the bike to an experienced BMW mechanic (yet not authorized), to give it a head & piston work. He told me that in order to change the gaskets it's also mandatory that he changes the piston rings, but since these are not sold separately, a new piston (wiseco made) has to be installed. Whether you confirm the above or not, since the bike has something like 175 hours on the clock and being blind of its past, I thought that I'll give it a go. So now waiting to get it back, probably end of this week...(not cheap!)
The safari tank has not arrived yet from Germany, even thought the seller (an official moto web store, maybe some of the guys here have bought something from him), has confirmed me that he has shipped it (yet, without providing a tracking number), after repeated reminders that I sent him, no answering on his side, plus threatening that I'll file him a report. Worst selling store, I've ever experienced, but I'll speak for that later...
Next projects to go (if you convince me for the Power Commander):
- Power Commander V
- Suspensions Upgrade (I found a local dealer that probably he is left with a rear WP Trox for the G450X, in his stock, though could not confirmed the suspension model type).
Best Regards

[Tims1572]

Myself and Gravelsurfer "Chris" both run the Powercommander with the Autotune. It will write its own map after setting the air fuel ratio "AFR" across the tables. activate it and it goes from there. Its been some time since I have even cabled mine up to the computer to even look at the current map. It runs very well and sits for long periods of time and still runs well. I just took it out for a spin last evening. Todays a holiday here in the US "Columbus Day".
As for the top end piston replacement I don't think Wiseco makes pistons for the G450 engines, He will likely have to go with ProX or Wossner. I run the ProX piston in my own bike. It got done at 112.5 hours.

[alevbas]

So Tim, this makes me understand that it would be easier if I buy both the commander and the autotune kit, or else I will have to plug it on a PC and start the experiments...The cost of the kit though is quite high...

[Tims1572]

If you only install the PC-V you will run the bike with it all hooked up to the computer for the first time, then you can read the current parameters of the bikes current map. You then will have to write the new or upgrade that map by setting the fuel tables at what RPM and what % throttle opening by populating the tables boxes clear across, throughout the engines operational window, from idle to redline. You populate the fuel tables by adding or subtracting, +%fuel or -%fuel (more or less) than what the map is fueling from the factory that is currently showed on the screen when you start out which would be the current power up map. Just so you know, the factory 02 sensor isn't even actively being used on the bike anymore in the power up mode at this point.

Since the bike also doesn't have a tachometer, when you ride the bike while you are trying to make corrections to your map next time you hook it up to see the tables with the Power Commander App. you are guessing at what rpm or where to make the correction you felt it was deficient after riding it. Another words if the bike falters or stumbles in a specific situation, you are stuck with guessing where and at what RPM that stumble may have happened, so you can proceed to either add fuel to richen it up or lean it out. The Map you write or load or modify will always be the same once its set and you go riding, until you make changes or download another map to use from the internet or what's provided by Dyno-Jet Power Commander for the G450X. There's really not anything out there to use and if so, its probably been written on the dyno and isn't really suitable for all around off road riding or single track.
Its going to be a compromise and so that's what you got. It doesn't change while you are riding, It doesn't change by altitude up or down. It can later be changed by you again or be tuned by a Dyno-Jet dealer on their motorcycle chassis dyno but again that's rarely going to suit your specific riding needs over all.
You can fool with it on the laptop for days. You only get improvements with more experience and only by constantly tuning and making changes.

Now on the other hand if you set it up with the Autotune, It has a new wide band 02 sensor its going to be running on that reads AFRs hundreds of time per second, (You'll have to get the included weld bung Tig welded onto the head pipe because it has a different diameter and thread than the factory one does. (It's Stainless Steel but if you have an aftermarket titanium head pipe you can order the Titanium bung from Dyno Jet). If you are running an up swept style exhaust similar to the stock routing, you need to weld it on in the same spot after cutting off or removing the original factory 02 bung, enlarge the hole if needed with a die grinder for clearance make sure the 02 sensor can screw in all the way after its tacked into place and before you weld it on be sure to remount the headpipe first to double check that its pointing upwards and not leaning out or inward too far. Then take it back off and weld it completely. The PC-V Autotunes 02 sensor is about 1-1/2 times as tall as the factory 02 sensor so you want to make damn sure its placed properly before committing to its final welding. Now that the 02 sensor is installed, remount the complete exhaust system.

Now you make sure that you get the wiring done properly and make good connections, (I soldered all of mine). The stripped back ends of the tiny wires that get pushed into the side of the Autotune module are tinned at the tips. Which makes it easier to push these wires into there respective tiny sockets and tighten them down really good, I used a set of tiny tipped jewelers flat head screwdrivers to do this. I wouldn't recommend cutting those tinned wire tips off, just wrap up the excess wire and tuck it away where it wont get damaged from the top of the rear shock. You will have limited space to do this. I was able to fit both the PC-V and the Autotune module under my hard plastic ECU cover under the seat with nothing even showing by using some peel and stick Velcro cut to size. Once all the connections get double checked and all the wires are tucked away.

You can now hook it up to the computer, start the bike, follow the directions and go through and set the fuel map by using AFRs (Air Fuel Ratio) settings of your choice. Its much simpler. For example I set mine up and so did Chris, by starting off my AFRs from just below the bikes actual Idle setting, in my case 1750rpm to start to populate fuel just under its set idle rpm. I have my idle set at 1950-2000rpm, I set my AFR at 13.2 to 1 on up through the RPM scale to about 6000rpm and I begin changing (richening the AFR) to a richer mixture as the rpms climb. I'm at 13 to 1 by 7000rpm, I'm at 12.9 by 7500rpm and 12.8 to 1 by 8000rpm and as the RPMs continue to climb I stay at 12.8 to 1 past 9000 and all the way to 10500rpm., I'm still at 12.8 to 1 AFR.

At the same time the AFRs tables start at idle and as the % throttle position is opening, I start at 13.2 to 1 and as the %throttle begins opening and the rpm increases up the table and AFRs increase across the table. I start fattening it up to 13.1 to 1 by about 50% Throttle opening and keep adding a richer AFR setting 13 to 1 at 65%Throttle opening, and I'm already at 12.9 to 1 by 75% throttle opening, I'm all in at 12.8 to 1 by 80% throttle opening onto 100% full throttle opening. At 100% throttle opening at 10500rpm you want the fuel to cool the top end, you aren't looking for great mileage here.

Now the Autotune will read these AFR settings and begin to fuel the bike so it reaches these AFR ratios when you ride it but it takes time to reach all these different RPM / % throttle opening situations. So the AFR setting by rpm and % throttle opening settings both combined after a few long rides are all going to be eventually reached by the Autotune adjusting the AFRs, from idle to redline rpm 10500 rpm and at 0% to 100% throttle openings. Just remember that you want the AFR settings to be at 12.8 to 1 by 80% to 100% throttle opening and 8000 to redline at 10500 maximum rpm. each has reached an AFR settings of 12.8 to 1.

Now you have had the Autotune do the changes for you to this first time written AFR map by reading those AFRs and it will overwrite the map every time you ride it. Making minor + %fuel or -% fuel changes. You can come back from a ride and look at the tables and see the changes of %fuel + or - %fuel added or taken away by the Autotune running the AFR settings you set it up with, even if you go up in altitude one day a few thousand feet it makes fueling corrections by reading the AFRs on every ride. The more time you ride and the more time the bike reaches those certain areas of rpm with different % of throttle opening the more exact the map will get. It tunes itself over and over. You can come home hook up the cable, look at the map and say to yourself "I am satisfied with the way its running now", So you have the option to click a box on the computer screen to accept that map you just looked at. Then you could essentially deactivate the Autotune feature if you accepted the map to run the bike on. If you decide to reactivate the Autotune again for the next future ride and let the Autotune continue doing its thing, you just reactivate the Autotune again. (I run my auto tune activated all the time and I'll get to that in a minute). If you accept your Autotune map and deactivate the Autotune, the Autotunes 02 sensor could actually be removed and capped off along with the removal of entire Autotune module. I would never do that myself but some people elect to do so and I think its a decision they make by worrying about the systems having an electronic failure of some sort or they just want to uncomplicate things by not really understanding what they are looking at in the first place when viewing the bikes maps on the computer rather than letting Autotune continue to map and improve its ability to meet the AFRs you selected. If you shut Autotune off, the bike gets ranon the map you recently accepted that Autotune has built following your AFRs.

Here's why I'll never do turn my Autotune off on my bike below:

I can't forget to tell you about 1 of the best Autotune features that you get with the Autotune, its an Accelerator pump feature. Think of a carburetor for a second with an accelerator pump each and every time the throttle is opened from the off throttle setting as you take off and give it gas, it pumps fuel again each time the throttle is closed and opened again regardless of speed or rpm.
OK now forget about that old fashioned carbs accelerator pump and think beyond that old technology.

The accelerator pump feature on the Autotune can be used to spray a +% fuel off of idle - say up to as little as just 2-3% or up to 10% throttle opening perhaps and you can adjust the +% fuel amount added and the duration of time this lasts by dividing the engines current rpms (revs per minute) by 60 seconds which gives you a figure that's down to how many actual engine rotations take place per second (41.6 revolutions at 2500rpm as an example) which when multiplied by say 1/2 seconds = about 21 actual engine revolutions for instance at 2500rpm, so that's approx. 1/2 a second duration. This figure translates to the +% fuel boost(squirt) + duration time. So how long the accelerator pump function lasts in time is related to RPM divided by 60 seconds multiplied by how many seconds. I think my bikes accelerator pump functions last for 35-36 revolutions which is about maybe 3/4 of a second duration coming off idle at 2000rpm up to say 2300rpm. So this happens very fast, but the on time duration can be shortened and fuel +% increased to do basically the same thing within reason of course.

Being able to add a + % fuel amount to squirt for a timed amount that you can mathematically calculate out to how many actual engines revolutions occur to adjust the duration time of that accelerator pumps squirt is beyond getting accurate. You can take the engine up so cleanly and smoothly from the idle rpm to rev as fast as you can crack the throttle and literally adjust it to a point that sitting next to it while adjusting this feature and its duration you can make it actually puff a bit of smoke, that you can see, and adjust it until it can't be seen. Best thing is that once its set it will only do this off idle rpm, or from a closed throttle position up to your setting 2-3% or out to 10% throttle opening from the bikes idle rpm. It won't do this at all, if the engines rpm is past that because the bike happens to be rolling. Unlike a carburetor will and always does when you open the throttle again.

Do you get what I'm saying here ?

You can also use this accelerator pump feature and 1 of the Autotunes built in rpm activated switch to allow you to set it to activate a second time as well to add a burst of fuel for a timed amount and add a +% of fuel beyond the maps fuel table to tune out a lean spot at a specific RPM anywhere throughout the engines operating window, with an adjustable duration of time doing the same math rpm divided by 60 seconds = X revolutions which equates to time. This would allow you to clear up that pesky stumble that you may find. That may also show up on the map tables when you connect the cable looking at the fuel maps on the computer. Think about that.

I guess I should also mention you could tune for economical fuel mileage as well if you want some higher miles per gallon for a commute ride out with the bike at anytime too. If you have a long stretch of dirt road you ride on to a riding area at say 40-45 mph or you happen to like jumping from trail to trail with a bit of a stretch in between on dirt roads, you can set up a specific moderate rpm to get better mileage and as long as you are in that high gear, rolling at that speed, not changing the % throttle opening or punching the throttle, you could essentially set a leaner AFR of say 13.8 to 1 or 14 to 1 AFR to get the best mileage for that set a cruise rpm in 5th gear, at that rolling speed. It may be an economically lean setting but I'm just trying to explain the benefits of the Autotunes features and of it's ability to read and tune by AFR settings alone. Theoretically the rolling speeds airflow will cool the engine just fine under these conditions although lean as long as you aren't doing this going up a long hill putting the engine under load. It can be done, but what fun is that? Not my thing. But it can be done.

The Power Commander with the Autotune is seriously Legit, period.
I can't say enough about it, the only thing the model for the G450X is missing is (timing control). Which may or may not be much of a benefit at any specific rpm, or % throttle opening and load situation. Who knows, but I know my own results on what it will do already. Others who don't want to spend the money to step up to the PC-V with Autotune, well I can't help them. There's really nothing else out there for these bikes that has this kind of features and this much of an effect.
Getting anything less from other tuning apps is a total compromise as well because that leaves you committed to what you just uploaded. That's all you get, it doesn't have any ability to tune while on the go and it can't correct if you happen to ride up or down in elevation.
The Power Commander isn't that difficult to master it breaks it down to you having total control by the basics. AFRs - %throttle opening - RPMs - + or - %fuel.
The Auto tune writes the map for you and you get to see exactly what its doing, which helps you understand it completely. Its like it schools you in tuning itself and you begin to look forward to seeing the next map on the computer and those AFRs and the + or - % fuel tables become the chalk board to teach you again every time you log on.
I hope that has answered your questions. Its taken me about 3+ hours or more of my holiday to write it, proof read it, add to it and edit it, so if their are any clerical mistakes. oh well, I'm not gonna worry about it. Chris can add to this if he likes. Maybe his lovely wife "Felicia" can add to it as well, as she has helped him tweak the PC-V on his bike a time or two when he got his brain deadlocked as I have had happen a time or two.
I'll leave it at that.
I haven't tapped out my brain that bad on this subject for some time. So I hope it's all coming in clear to you.

[gravelsurfer]

Hey Bill, I’m going to join this conversation again, since I have had my own experience with the Power Commander and auto tune. I completely agree with Tim, don’t bother with the Power Commander unless you also add the Auto Tune. I followed Tim’s advice because it made sense to me and the difference it made to my bike was immediately noticeable on first startup! Then when I rode it I couldn’t believe how much it had improved the engine’s performance. The bike fired up instantly, stopped flaming out at low revs, pulled much harder through the entire rev range. Every time I plugged it in to the laptop the auto tune had made changes to the tune depending on all the variables, so the “state of tune” was constantly optimised.
On the other hand, I put a Power Commander on my 1200 gs, a few years prior to the G450. I installed the map supplied by Power Commander that matched the after market exhaust and air filter I was running. Sure, it made a difference but the engine had a noticeable “flat spot” in the mid rev range. So I took it to a Dynojet tuner who charged me $450 to tune it. This made a huge difference but as Tim noted the “state of tune” was now specific to the conditions on that day. In warmer weather when the air is hot and less dense the bike loses performance.... the Auto Tune would correct this without me even having to think about it. And the cost of a Dyno tune would have paid for it! The only reason I haven’t done anything about it is that I don’t ride my 1200 much lately, and when I do it’s usually in the cooler weather.
Yes, it’s not a cheap investment but if you can swing it you won’t be disappointed!!
Cheers
Chris

[alevbas]

Hi guys,
hope that you are all keeping up well, cause the 2nd peak of the pandemia has now started to affect our everyday lives quite heavily again...
Anyway, let's go to our own illness, the small and only, true off-road beemer... I'm still waiting to get the bike back from the workshop, after the head/piston work (piston by Prox), in order to install the rear safari tank I finally received, after two months of patience. The mechanic told me that the top head cover was cracked (probably cause of my overtightening...) and will need a new one. This is the part he waits to get, in order for me to have the bike back. I'm thinking of not installing the zipty breather again and currently connect the standard breathing vent (the one behind the head to my oil catch can configuration). This is until I have the chance to find a DMD breather. I believe that this is better, since I will not have to drill out again the new cover and will allow me to get off the cover easily, for valves' clearance check. Is there any link for having one of this? Since I'm not a facebook user...
Another tricky question, I will have to address and hopefully get your opinions. Lately the change of the front suspension (as Chris has suggested) is triggering my mind. I may have the chance to get a bargain on a KTM WP 48mm pair of forks. So, since I wouldn't like to get thinks complicated with changing bearings and another triple clamp, I thought that I could buy a spare standard triple clamp and machine the holes in order to receive the 48mm forks. Would this work? Or would this result into having thinner clamping material for the forks to be tightened and maybe would finally crack?
Your thoughts over the above, would be very much appreciated...
Bill

[alevbas]

Just for info, I'm thinking of buying a spare stock triple clamp, so that I will be left with one, if things go bad with boring the holes, in order to receive the WP 48mm and easily come back into the standard set up.
Also I wouldn't like to change my ohlins steering damper set up, which I managed to finalize, just some time back. After quite some search, it seems that there is no other 45mm forks solution available, in order to replace the standard Marzzoti...

[gravelsurfer]

Hey Bill, I’m not sure about how successful machining the OEM triple clamp might be... you may have to be the “test pilot” for this approach!!
When I converted my front end I had my suspension mechanic machine the OEM axle to fit the WP fork legs, and he also machined some new wheel spacers. This allowed me to retain the original wheel bearings.
I can check any measurements and take photos for you when I get my bike back.... it’s at the exhaust shop at the moment, I’m having my exhaust copied for another forum member.

Regards
Chris

[Tims1572]

Bill, 1 of our members has machined the triples for a set of KYB/Kayaba forks. Its back in the forum quite a ways. I believe it was "Campbell" who did this.

If you don't mind reading my own very long winded and detailed posts of how I converted my WP 4860 swap using a set of Cast KTM trees, just go to the other "G450 series accessory nation" section and look for this thread link under "WP fork modification". on page 3. I used a set of KTM open chamber production forks from between 2004-2008 era.
Link: https://g450riders.org/forum/showthr...k-modification

I simply turned a pair of 1/2 mm thick 4130 moly sleeves with an OD of 30mm and an ID of 29mm, roughly 1.181 OD and a 1.141 ID. I then press fit these sleeves into the larger 30mm BMW steering head bearings to make them fit the smaller KTM stem that uses a 29mm ID smaller bearing. Once pressed into the inner race of the bearings using Loctite 209 sleeve retainer they will never come out unless I want them to come out.

This has worked perfectly on my G450X for several years, Since the offset of the trees was different I simply had to buy the KTM specific GPR submount base to convert my GPR steering damper to mount it to the KTM trees which was very simple and since I had the complete front end I just swapped to using the KTM front wheel as well so spacers weren't an issue.
I did have to re-drill 2 of the rearward holes to remount the front fender which was not a problem/
The BMW brake caliper was exactly the same for the 45mm Marzocchi forks and so are the fork guards.

[alevbas]

Thanks guys for your advice.
Chris, probably I was not clear, I meant that I do not want to mess with changing the head stem bearings, this is why my initial thought was to keep the original triple clamps.
I think I'll may give it a go. Tim thanks, the thread "Triple clamps machining" seems quite helpful, indeed.
Any link for the DMD breather, out there?? I've decided to put aside the zipty...

BR
Bill

[Tims1572]

You will have to send a PM to "David Bates, aka Dangermouse designs" for when he will have another batch of the DMD breathers available. He runs the Husky 449/511 owners group page on Facebook.

[E-Jay]

Another tricky question, I will have to address and hopefully get your opinions. Lately the change of the front suspension (as Chris has suggested) is triggering my mind. I may have the chance to get a bargain on a KTM WP 48mm pair of forks. So, since I wouldn't like to get thinks complicated with changing bearings and another triple clamp, I thought that I could buy a spare standard triple clamp and machine the holes in order to receive the 48mm forks. Would this work? Or would this result into having thinner clamping material for the forks to be tightened and maybe would finally crack?
Your thoughts over the above, would be very much appreciated...
Bill

This will Work. I had this setup on my bike, GPR4 stabilizer and all, rode the Hellas Rally in Greece and several local events in Holland with it and then switched to a set of Xtrig clamps. The clamps are gathering dust since then, if youre interested?

[alevbas]

Evert, thank you for the offer, however I've already bought a set of spare clamps by member "Juha" in Finland and waiting to receive them. Actually, I would prefer to have had them already machined though...
Some quick photos I took last night in the garage, after a weekend of messing around to install the Safari tank and Samco cooling pipes. I got the bike back on Friday, after the head/piston work (it really rocks...).
So next project is upgrading the suspensions and probably a complete sticker kit...

[Campbell]

Here you go; http://g450riders.org/forum/showthre...=1#post1963186

[alevbas]

Hello to all of you guys and honestly wishing to all of you, a Happy New Year and all the best for you and your families.
So, back to the most addictive bike ever and after the head piston work, I proceeded into the installation of the safari rear tank and the samco cooling pipes. After that, I installed a front brake disc of 320mm from Braking (originally for Aprilia SXV450/550, after figuring out that G450X and this model share the same front hub) by using a brembo extension bracket I was given with the spare pair of supermoto wheels I had bought some months back and never used them, when decided to got for the rally version. Aprilia OEM part no. AP9100528.



Then it was the time for a lithium battery (SKYRICH LFP-1 plus), since the old one (only a year old) could not start the bike even if it read 13V. After some 1 or 2 unsuccessful attempts it dropped to 12V or so and started that awful jizz noise, even if the battery was left always on charging and showing full of charge. Anyway, it is the 1st time I use a lithium battery and will see how it goes. It is actually of less height (85mm instead of the original 105mm of YTZ7S) and what is most important is that this weights 0.5kgr compared to the 2kgr of a common lead acid battery. This is the one:

[alevbas]

Now to the critical issue that I'll need your useful advice.
As I've written above, the project that is now on my mind, is a noticeable and sufficient upgrade of the front suspension. I've already bought a spare of original triple clamps (unfortunately acquiring an XTRIG seems like a wet dream) and currently going through all my options. I ended up with the below listed 3 alternatives, for which I would be grateful to hear your opinion. Mind that I've set as a priority, to stay with the current set up with the OEM triple clamps, so there wouldn't be any need to alter anything with my Ohlins steering damper, which I hardly managed to finalize, just some time back, having utilized a Scotts submount plate that came from a Ducati Hypermotard 1100 and avoiding this way, to face the problem of different stem bearings' diameter as well, if another triple camp was to be used. To make things harder, I've also set the prerequisite of leaving the front hub and axle set up, unaffected, taking under consideration the recent installation of the 320mm front brake disk.

[alevbas]

1st option: go for the Marzocchi Shiver 45mm forks. This will allow me to stay with the OEM triple clamp and the current standard front hub/axle set up. It seems quite difficult to get the OEM G450X 2010 silver forks, however I'm more than positive that the Marzocchi Shiver 45 forks of an Aprilia RXV450/550 (which are easier to source) can be used with no modification.

2nd option: use a 48mm pair of forks which will not need any modification to the lower part (i.e. hub and axle). To go for that, I'll need to machine down the spare OEM triple clamp, in order to allow the fitment of the larger diameter forks. I believe that, if I was to go for this option, I would have to buy either a pair of KYB 48mm, as Campbell did, originally for a HUSQVARNA TE/TC 449/511 or any Husky between 2010-2013 (like TC/FE250, WR250, etc.). Another alternative for this solution, would be the Marzocchi 48mm (GAS GAS EC250/300).

3nd option: use an easy to find pair of WP 48mm from a KTM and machine down the spare OEM triple clamp to accept those. However, by doing this I will definitely mess with changing the front hub's bearings and re-centering the wheel, since these use the larger KTM axle. I'm not too confident with this solution, though.

To cut the long story, these are all what I have come with, after quite some thinking and reading on this issue and considering the restrictions I myself set...

Happy New Year!

[alevbas]

An alternative of the 3rd option would be to machine the OEM axle to fit the WP fork legs and use some new wheel spacers as Chris did...

Leaving aside the big project of the suspension upgrade, I've noticed that after the piston work, the bike starts harder...I mean it needs some 5-7 times or more of me pressing the start button, until the engine fires up and remains idling. All the previous times, it does fire but it soon stops. First 1-3 times, engine stops just after pressing the start button, rest of the attempts, it kills after 2-3 seconds, until the engine finally remains idling. Next, when the bike is relatively hot, it starts with the first attempt and no issue exists, until engine gets cold again (let's say the next morning). Does anyone know why this is happening? Probably, this is why my previous battery was drained...
Could it be that the mechanic did not properly adjusted the valves' clearance and they are now more tight than they should? Or maybe a bad spark plug? FYI, the coolant temperature switch was taken off its harness (probably was not working properly), previously of me getting the bike, but this did not cause any issue and the bike used to start immediately. I'm afraid that this situation will exhaust the new Li battery, as well...I've order a new temperature switch, just to see if things get better...

[gravelsurfer]

Hey, I would definitely start with making sure the valves are adjusted correctly. What you describe is certainly a symptom of bad valve clearances, which can lead to bigger problems. I had almost exactly the same symptom with my original engine after a service. I took it back to the mechanic and it was a bad valve adjustment that caused it. The problem was resolved with a correct adjustment, however that engine eventually blew up as a result of a broken valve. I’ll never prove a link between one event and the other but it makes me wonder.... the first indicator that something wasn’t ok was the engine developed a loud knock at idle. I had time to fit a new cam chain adjuster at the service point but no time to inspect the top end. I should have withdrawn from race and possibly saved the engine...
At that time Speedbrain were still selling new engines, so at $3,000 landed it was cheaper to buy one of those than to repair the broken one. Then in the 2019 race the oil cavitation at the bottom end destroyed the new engine.... which had under 20hrs on it. Luckily the top end wasn’t effected so my new mechanic (one of best mates) was able to use it along with the good bottom end from the original engine. We put a new piston in it and a gasket set, so it was a cheap fix. So the bike now has it’s original engine back in and purring like a kitten. I’m now using the DMD breather, which I’m very happy with.
At this stage I don’t know if the Rally event is going ahead? It was cancelled in 2020 due to Covid, and may not be on this year either?? At least I have a running bike again!
Let us know how you go with the starting/idling problem, hopefully it’s a quick fix!

Regards
Chris

[Allroad]

I always pull in the clutch when I start the bike, even if it is on neutral. I've noticed that all small things help starting this bike, even a small push with the second gear and playing with the clutch and starting at the same time sometimes does the trick. And lights off, not trying to start when the fan is on And yes, might be good to check the valves.