I am a long time Japanese bike rider, but for my latest purchase, I went to the dark side and bought a BMW Enduro !! a 2009 G450X. I got the final push because i managed to get my hand on a brand new engine block from the factory alongside the bike!!
I have though a few questions that you might be able to answer (I haven't found the answer using the search engine)
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1) Is there a way to get the BMW repair manual ?
2) My clock reset everytime I start the bike. is it linked to a faulty battery?
3) the side stand is a nightmare. It was torn from new. I welded and screwed an tube to it so it is strong enought but It wooble a lot. If I get a new one, will it be very fragile? (it is twice more expensive than on a WRF450...)
Also, what is the reference of the bush and the screw that hold it? On the online part manual I can only see the one holding the small moon part.
Also, the side stand is only hold by 1 spring on mine, where I can see on the manual that there is a set of 2. Is it normal?
4) Where is the horn located? Mine does not have it
5) Mine is also missing the turn signal stock (only the bottom part). BMW seems to be only selling the entire stock (including the light etc..)
Is the wiring the same? How is the buttom part attached to the top part?
6) My instrument cluster bouton are not very responsive. Is it common?
7) I have lost during transport the rear brake connecting rod. How is it attached to the brembo brake cylinder? Do I have to purge the entire rear braking fluid to get it mounted?
Great score on the bike with a fresh crate engine.
1) You can google BMW G450X Service repair Rep-Rom CD, You should be able to find it and either download a copy off of the internet for a small fee or buy the disc itself. We did have some members on here offering the CD file for copy but I believe those options are not currently available from the file hosting service.
2) If the bike has sat for a long time, check the battery inside the factory dash gauge, it's a simple flat disc, watch style battery. Its accessible from the bottom side of the gauge. Be careful removing the self tapping screws into the plastic that hold the gauge to the mount bracket. The plastic is somewhat brittle and can easily crack when taking the screws out or putting them back in if the self tapping coarse threads don't engage into the previous threads cut from the first time the screws were installed. The battery can go dead in the gauge cluster itself and make the gauge go haywire and cause it to act up. That's probably why the gauge isn't holding its memory, or why the option buttons going from screen to screen aren't working..
3) The side stand is a pain in the ass. Not any real good replacements available from other bikes that are worth recommending either. I have never seen anyone try to replace the original stand with something else that didn't turn out to be worse than the original and the wasted time doing this just turned out to be a complete Jerry rigged effort in my opinion. You can cut the weld off of the tubes circumference where its welded and ground smooth at the end of the upper end of the tube near the pivot knuckle and replace the piece of tube itself. Its 15" over all length from the pivot hole to the toe of the footplate on the end of the tube. 14 1/2" from the side 14" at the heel from the side. I've never seen anybody sleeve the outside of the tube like you have done? You can also get a replacement for about $90.00 US dollars and buy the hardware to go with it. You would need to order it though. After buying a new one if you decide to beef it up, pull the end foot cap off and slide a piece of steel or even better yet aluminum round stock up inside the thin wall tube to strengthen it then reinstall the end cap. I've had the same original stand on my bike for 8+ years, had to pay $3.60 to buy a new foot end cap from the dealer when I lost it on a ride one time. The lower end of the tube has a small hole in the end so I drilled it and pop riveted the end tip/cap on so that wouldn't happen again. I have slightly ground the inside radius of the crescent shaped spring clip so it doesn't apply so much spring tension on it but it still wants to retract by itself and will at times fall over too easily. I have a good set of hand guards on the bike so it doesn't hurt the bikes levers falling over. I grease the sleeve to the side stands bolt shank and then wipe any excess off the threads then I use plenty of Loctite on the screws threads when attaching it back on the mount into the frame and let it dry in the up position over night before ever lowering it down again. It should have 2 springs one telescopes up inside the other. One was probably removed to lesson the spring tension on the stand. Both springs make it more dangerous if you aren't used to it. Someone/Previous Owner included likely had it hit him in the shins and fall on him one too many times. It wasn't designed to be sat on with it down and that's about the only thing that will actually bend it to the point of it needing replacement or repair in my opinion. I only use mine when I go riding and I don't dare try moving it around after its settled. Trust me I've dropped it plenty of times when riding, or in my own driveway, in the shop or garage so I keep it up on a center lift stand set back to rise up under the rear of the skid plate and the forward part of the swingarm, to keep it steady.
4) The horn usually is mounted off of a small bracket on the left side of the cylinder, attached to the bracket that supports the lower part of the radiator that mounts to the exhaust flanges studs.
5) The handlebars switch housings are designed to have the lower halves that have the turn signal switches removed once they are no longer needed for off road use and the headlights, high/low beam, and the start/kill switch on the right side. The factory headlight switch by the way can be carefully pried off/lifted off with a small screw driver from the metal post stem from the switch itself housing itself and there is a stop built in that can be removed to allow the headlight to be turned to the off position. So it has high beam/ low beam / off. Many of these bikes had this stop installed from the factory (US versions). But its nice to turn it off for on or off road requirements. If yours just has a high/low beam, check that out ? Since you are in France not sure of that countries requirements. You can change to many different turn signals, Switches may need to be replaced if yours have been taken off. I would stick to conventional rather than LED signals so you don't have to wire in any convertor to make the flasher function properly.
6) For the dash buttons to properly function, Again the battery needs replacing to get the dash to function properly unless it has been damaged in the past that neither of us knows about.
7) The brake actuation rod is adjustable and has a clevis at the end that has a push trough pin with and a spring clip that holds the end of the pin and it keeps it from backing out so it doesn't get lost. This is a easy enough to find Brembo part (the threaded adjustable push rod itself) but it must be one with the clevis end rather that a spherical rod end (Heim Joint) since the pedal arm is lined up directly under and below the push rods hole. Its not offset like on the KTMs/Huskys which is why they use a Heim joint to connect the end to the pedal from the outer side of the hole in the brake pedal.
You may want to read up here on the G450 riders forum and there are also 2 Facebook pages titled (BMW G450X) and (BMW g450x) that have plenty of activity and information going on daily as well on Facebook. However this forum has the worlds largest and best archived technical information on this planet about the common failures on these bikes, and anything else to do with this motorcycle.
Take 30 minutes to lay the bike on its right side, (Don't worry, The side cover gasket can be reused). Now with the bike laying on its right side so it doesn't spill any oil. Pull the left side cases screws, pull the side cover (its has strong magnetic pull from the flywheel so its can be stubborn to get off) to inspect the flywheel bolts that are prone to backing out. They are faulty from the factory and need to be changed out to better hardware, There are 6 of them, size M6mm x 12mm long x 12.9 hardness. The factory screws have a hollow portion just under the head that stretches the bolts shank just below the bolt head and this allows the screws to start coming loose. (See the Picture of them after falling out and grinding up the copper windings). The factory bolts need to be removed, (Look at the center smaller hole of the right hand bolt in the picture below), If your bolts look like that, and have that second hole in the middle of the Allen head bolts then you have the original factory bolts that are still being used. If so, don't just tighten them, (if this hasn't been done already and they weren't replaced) install new bolts and they should be torqued to 14-15 Newton Meters, The factory CD say's to torque them to 25NM and that's the main problem. "Its a misprint", they get stretched in over torqueing them beyond their stress yield point, which leads to failure. Install the new ones with a permanent red Loctite thread locker. There is a picture I've selected below of the replacement screws comparison to the factory garbage screws used on the right side of the image. If this isn't done it will likely wipe out the copper windings in the stator coils. there is also a picture of a failed stator from someone that didn't do this inspection and waited too late. They got a copper rat nest instead and a fat invoice for new parts. Follow this direction below when putting the side case back on, put a dab of silicone sealer on the rubber grommet where the stator wires come through. The side cover gasket has a metal core and it can be reused if you didn't damage it. I have a few new ones laying around since I have reused the previous gasket over and over again. I just spray it lightly on both sides with a copper coat gasket sealer, let it dry a few minutes and go ahead and re-install it again.
This is very important: Have a look at the first picture of the ground up copper in the engines stator flywheel, you can see the left middle case has a hole next to the upper screw hole (Just a warning. Be careful when reassembling the side cover to not apply silicone sealer anywhere close to the that top hole. It's an important oil passage that feeds into the outer side cover and that passage is what feeds oil down through the left side, and into the hollow end of the crankshaft to feed oil to the big end of the rod Journal and the main bearings. You can see the matching hole in the upper top area of the outer side case next to it on the left side cover, this oil passage is what feeds the rod so you don't want messy gasket sealer getting in there.
Another thing you should do is eventually/sooner than later. Remove the breather hose from the case behind the cylinder and do a breather relocation mod to get the breather up on the rocker cover area so the bike doesn't get oil blown up into the airbox from the factory breather. This happens after some hours of use that leads to top end blow by from piston ring wear. ZipTy racing sells a kit to do this and so does David Bates from Dangermouse designs, his is installed by cutting a section of the D shaped area from the valve cover gasket, He does installation videos on You Tube for the 449 Huskys his is sold for the 449/511 Husky bikes but he also offers one specifically for the CCM450s and the G450X that has the outlet fitting at a different angle and it gets mounted to the forward "D" rather that the rear one like they do on the Husky 449. The ZipTy racings breather mounts up on top after drilling one of the forward righthand side valve cover hold down screws out to a larger size. I have 2 engines and I use the DMD on one and the ZipTy on the other, both do the same thing. This will allow the breather to function properly and lesson/eliminate engine oil loss coming from out of the oil rich vapor leaving the factory breathers location. I've added a few pictures of my engines to see the ZipTy Breather on the black engine with the red valve cover its the red fitting on top of the cover. The DMD breather is on the other engine that has the breather installed on the right side of the cylinder head so you can see each of them so you see what I'm talking about. This is a must have modification. There's a lot more benefits to doing this modification that what I've said here for you It helps the engine maintain its oil level and also makes the engines internal torque Limiter last longer so that's something you can also do some reading about too.
Also I left a picture of my brake pedal master cylinder rod so you can see it. It may look bent but its not, I run my brake pedal very high so its just adjusted out far to raise the pedal up. There is a few pictures of my kickstand mounted and a picture from the CD of the left side cover number (7) is the oil passage I spoke about above that feeds through to the outer side case and into the crankshaft that rides in a bearing seated in the side cover where the stator coil windings are.
2) I removed the cluster and found out that indeed the battery (type CR2430) was dead. That's the good news. The bad news, is that my bike is missing the plastic cap that covers the battery area... I am going to have to find a DIY solution to cover it
3)I have indeed read many of the topic about the side stand. It's quite a subject!! Mine seems to have suffered bending + a special end cap. My original idea was the same as your which is slide an inner tube to strengthen it but the end cap is welded so I decided to go with quick fix with the external tube (this is a temporary solution till I get a new one)
I am going to order the stand and keep my spring. Is the bush and the screw the right one pointed in my diagram (ref 5 and 6 ?) They are weirdly positioned on the official diagram
4) Thanks for the horn. I have found the harness for it. I am going to see if I can fit one from my Kawasaki. The BMW one is too expensive
5) My headlight stock has the option to switch off the light completely. That avoids at least to drain the battery too much.
The turn signal lower halves are connected to the bike electronics via a specific harness right? And it is screwed to the headlight one or just slided in?
I am going to see if I can get a replacement part for the turn signal one and not the entire assembly
7) Regarding the rear brake, the pictures helps a lot. From what I understand the rod is actually not attached to the master cylinder, it is just pushing it by contact right?
8) thanks for the tip regarding the failing screws of the flywheel. I will see if I have time to do the inspection in the next couple of days before leaving the country house where the bike is located (back to work and all that crap.... )
9) I will also have a look at the mod regarding the engine top
I have joined the Facebook G450X group but I am not a huge fan of social network for this type of discussion. The forum type allow a more constructive approach (documented and time lasting). i have also started going through the forum thread trying to sort what is still valid (some posts are really old)
You can probably find a instrument cluster on eBay for a good price.
The bolt and bushing is #(4) and (5) on the drawing in the bottom right corner. #(6) is the crescent shaped spring return plate, it creates spring tension by wrapping itself over center around the bolts bushing sleeve on the kickstand so it seemingly retracts at the slightest look at it when not expected and even seems to retract at times from simply looking at it wrong.
The rear brake pushrod just pushes against the bottom of the master cylinders piston. If you look at the picture you will notice the additional Allen head screw just behind it that sets the stop for the brake pedals height. Once that is set then you can adjust the push rod to have just a bit of slack by backing off the push rods pressure on the piston. Otherwise the rear brake will drag.
Please make it a priority to check the flywheel bolts and don't put it off, I have at least 40 pictures of these engines wiping out the copper windings and I have only really thought to save these images for the past year or so because I have spent 8+ years warning people about this and I still see this happen a few times a month on average. If you are unfortunate enough to have this happen to you. It has become nearly impossible to buy a new stator assembly from a BMW, Husky or a CCM dealer.
Its only sold as a complete assembly, if you do find one from a dealer and the flywheel is included with it. Price is about $650.00+US Dollars. More importantly the new ones which are about a 6 month wait if you are lucky have a flywheel that has a newer version that uses a wider woodroof key that doesn't fit the BMW factory crankshafts, which were known to shear or so they say, I've never seen this happen yet
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What I'm trying to say is, A replacement stator, before it is going to be able to be installed will end up requiring a complete crankshaft swap as well if you end up with the newer Husky version Stator and flywheel. Its even more difficult to find a new crankshaft and these crankshafts are not repairable or rebuildable, They are made of 2 pieces, not 3. They are not made of 2 flywheels and a replaceable rod pin. Once the big end of the rod bearing is worn out its a throw away part. Going price if you can find one is close to $750.00 or more. The cranks right side flywheel and rod journal are all 1 piece and are permanently attached to each other. The left side has the hole that accepts the Rod journal after the connecting rod and bearing is attached. Oil is fed to the big end rod bearing from the hollow left side of the crankshaft from the passage in the left side case I mentioned before.
My point is. You don't want to start robbing parts off that new crate engine to keep the bike going.
Just keep in mind that these engines only have a single compression ring. Anyone I know that has ever done a piston change, myself included, has realized that the old pistons compression ring had about 3 times the maximum end gap allowed in the service manual.
This leads to massive amounts of piston blow by, which if the bike is running the power-up plug and the richer fuel map it is rich enough that it contaminates the 1100 ccs of engine oil with Gasoline pretty rapidly. This means the oil level may look like its full and you may not seem to experience any oil loss from the factory breather hose leading to the airbox. You may think nothing out of the ordinary seems to be happening but a quick sniff of that engine oil in the cases after any hard ride where you had periods of sustained wide open throttle for any period of time. All you need to do is just smell the oil and it will smell like gasoline and the real test is dipping a finger in the engine oil and a holding a cigarette lighter you will find out it will ignite it easily. Oil dilution/contamination can kill the crankshaft in a single ride easily.
I myself sort of laugh at the FB pages because you can't find a post from a few weeks ago. The Forum here at least has it somewhat archived back in the titled threads and discussion pages, going back for over a decade. I get kicked off FB so many times a year from my Political views that I can't do anything but read the stuff on there anyway about half the time.
I've included a few pictures of factory repair manual views of what the crankshaft looks like, as you can see the rod journal is only pressed into the left side and you can see how the right hand flywheel is a forging with the rod journal incorporated into the right hand side flywheel.
I also have added a few pictures of my own bike that shows what I've done to my engines breather relocation set up. I've been running this set up since 2013 and never have oil in the airbox or oil dripping from where it drains from the airbox to the bottom of the bike either. I've taken the breather upgrade a step further and upgraded it to include a fabricated aluminum internally baffled breather tank, that doubles as an oil recovery system. The tank is mounted to the cylinders right hand side, the valve covers breather hose connects to the front of the 2 top fittings on the breather tank. The second rear top fitting hose goes to the fitting on the airbox. Any oil contained in the engines breather vapor can then pass through the breather tanks perforated internal baffling where it can re-condense upon contact with the baffling material and any small amounts of oil contained therein is then returned to the engines oil filler plug. The lower return hose is standard commercial semi truck Air Brake hose and I used Stainless Steel swivel fittings with quick thumb release fittings to attach or remove the hose itself. The 90 degree S/S fittings both swivel when they are installed which allows me to remove the tapped billet oil filler plug without having the caps return hose fitting interfere with the the oil filler cap requiring rotation to take it off.
Thanks for the message. I agree. The forum is the best area to get quality type information and not some randomly 5 minutes types of validity piece of information
I have left the country side house and I am back in Paris now. I won't ride the back before a months at least. I did not had time to open the case and check the flywheel because I did not have proper copper spray in that house. I will prepare the parts and tooling and do it once I'll be back in February. I want to order a side seal just in case I damage the one in place
I will update you with some pictures once I have done the operation.
I am also trying to source some parts online. Allroad from Finland seems to have some parts available. Hope I'll be able to get them before February trip
FYI, the rear brake works. I have used a small too to push the master cylinder and no issue. So i am just missing the push road and the clevis type hook. I am going to order this as well.
I am having hard time finding the DMD kit for G450X . It seems to be no longer sold. Any special link you might know? Do I have to contact Dangermouse directly?
Also, can you advise what are those connectors for? The first 2 where hidden below the cluster (when I changed the CR battery). I guess one is for the turn signal (not connected on my bike)
Thanks
And is this the horn connector? The big plastic connector is it the engine diagnostic port?
Dangermouse (David Bates) will make another batch soon, Leave him a message and he will put you on the list. He works in the Mines in Australia and spends many months at a time away from home. Your other option would be the ZipTy racing breather but they are at times just as hard to get ahold of.
The gasket is metal its not absolutely need to spray it with a copper gasket spray. I just do it because I reuse the gaskets over and over again. Its metal you would have to actually try hard to mess it up and damage it If you order the left side gasket kit from BMW you will find that it is actually called the alternator/generator repair kit. That has the gaskets, new side cover washers for the 9 screws that hold it on, the woodruff key for removal of the flywheel, (that you won't need since it won't have to come off unless the entire thing is being replaced). It has the 2 hollow metal dowel's for case alignment. It also has the factory 6 replacement flywheel screws that you don't want to use, since they are the same hollow pieces of garbage that cause this problem to so many owners in the first place, Years ago at 1 point, there was a BMW recall on the stator screws repair, You could ask the dealer about it but the dealer would just put the same screws back in again instead of using bolt of a better quality. NOT GOOD. Buy good screws and don't over torque. That's it, no more than about 14-15 NM with 12.9 grade hardware.
I hope Juha can help you out on the missing parts you can use, he can give you a good deal too.
The big round connector is the diagnostic port.
I'm not able to see the bracket very well for the horn, or the connector if its there. My turn signals are gone on my bike too and the wiring is wrapped up behind the headlight mask so I've never really messed with any of the plugs other that thoughts of removing all of them as the are a mess.
Well I got to go back to work today so I'm off been off since the start of Dec. on Vacation.
Good luck on the bike, Tim
Oh and glad to here the rear brake is good. If you can't find the brake pedal rod from BMW or eBay, I believe a current model Beta 300 one may work, they also use a clevis on the end of the rod which would probably also work, (take a look online) and the nice aftermarket ones are about 20 bucks. The rod would probably be the same as many KTMs also.
Hello Pascal, Many thanks for the RepRom. Download initated!!
Tim,
Thanks again for the detailled topic. I am building the list of parts to get / find.
I have a small request : I am looking to add a strap to the rear so that I can lift/handle the bike more easilly. As the bike is not with me, can you measure the distance between the 2 bolt behind the seat on each side of the bike ?
PS : I just realised you have what i am looking for. Any idea where you got it?
Hey that bike looks familiar, I loved that rear tire and still have it in the garage, along with a half dozen other 20 -25 hr. take offs. That's a 140/80/18 MotoZ Tractionator. I think its the only tire that I have ever ran more than 40+ hours, unlike all the others I have removed before they reached 25hrs. Once the traction had been compromised and the center of the tread began to wear itself down it didn't like to turn in very well. So I went back to a 120/100/18.
I honestly can't remember where I bought the Grab straps from. I'll get a measurement tomorrow afternoon when I get home from work. Its been about 8 years since I got the grab straps, there's one on the front of the bike as well. It may have a name stitched into the webbing, I'll look to see.
Hello Badaboum,
I can recognize another one that is being heavily addicted on this bike...
And regarding an issue I think Tims missed, the figure shows two springs for the side stand, however it is one actually that comprises of two spirals. I bought a new one and this is at least what I was delivered.
Quote from "alevbas"
And regarding an issue I think Tims missed, the figure shows two springs for the side stand, however it is one actually that comprises of two spirals. I bought a new one and this is at least what I was delivered.
My quote from the previous post before "badaboum" posted the factory kickstand drawing:
"It should have 2 springs one telescopes up inside the other. One was probably removed to lesson the spring tension on the stand. Both springs make it more dangerous if you aren't used to it. Someone/Previous Owner included likely had it hit him in the shins and fall on him one too many times."
On the Contrary, I hadn't missed that at all, My G450 has fallen on me directly and down so many times I will never miss the fact that its a double spring. Lol !
I mentioned the kickstand had a double spring with one telescoped up inside the other.
Badaboum, "Rami", The distance between the rear fenders holes is just about 7" center to center, straight across, not arched over the hump in the fender. I had a bit of difficulty getting a more accurate measurement since I had placed a 36" X 49" sheet of freshly painted .045" sheet aluminum (Roof panel for the new rollcage on my Can-Am X3) that was laying across a blanket I had covered both seats on my dirt bikes with. I had just painted the roof panel when I got off work and I picked it up wet to put it inside the garage across the 2 seats so it wouldn't blow away in the wind if I had left it outside.
I see you caught up with David Bates to get a DMD breather from him. Good timing.
I'm kicked off Fakebook for another 20 days or so because I answered a question from someone that asked me what I thought should happen to those involved with Voter fraud in this Country ? I said they should be "Publicly Flogged", which according to Fakebook is against their community standards for "inciting violence". I got another 30 days. Lol.
Not a problem Bill.
As you well know the Quirky kickstand on these bikes is something that like it or not, its what they gave us. Once it hits you a few times and falls and breaks something its sort of hard to forget.
I am going to get a new stand from Allroad. Once I will have it, I will see to retube the stand from the inside before putting the cap. I think this should help straighten it a bit more
Hello guys
I am still not with the BMW as I am traveling for a few weeks, but I saw on the Husky Facebook page a nice accessory. A temperature gage radiator cap.
Any idea if there is one available for the BMW? Anyone of you fitted one of those?
Trust me, I just walked out to my garage and took these photos and checked the caps from my bikes. A 2009 BMW G450X and my 2015 Husqvarna FE 501 and they interchange perfectly.
The only difference is, my BMW G450X has a factory 22lb. pressure cap that fits directly onto my '15 FE 501 Husqvarna radiators neck and turns all the way to the lock position, the Husky FE 501 uses an 18lb. cap from the factory. It fits directly onto my G450X factory radiator without any problems.
Its a bit dark in my garage at this time right now and I had to use a flasher for these pictures, so they may not be the best while I was out there doing this for you, I also took a look at my complete spare 2nd G450X factory radiator that I have stored on the shelf that has the fan, front plastic louvers, etc. and it has the same identical brand 22lb. cap on it as the one on my G450X has, so I know its the original factory cap.
The factory 2009 BMW G450X radiator's neck is the same as my 2015 Husky FE 501, The only difference in the caps is the pressure rating.
So I would say that whatever the people told you on the Husky FB page ? It happens to be the incorrect information.
I happen to have both the '09 BMW G450X and a '15 KTM built Husqvarna in my garage and I can assure you that the radiator caps are interchangeable.
Any links to get the replacement screws from amazon/ online store?
The video from Dangermouse on youtube does not give any more details than yours
I do not want to innovate from what you guys have been using
Also, regarding the radiator cap,
If I get it correctly, the pressure rating on the BMW is 2.2 bars vs the 1.8 for the KTM, right?
Yes the Radiator cap is a 2.2 bar. Sorry I had referred to it as 22lbs.
Any good hardware store should have the flywheel screws in their fasteners section. They are M6 x 12mm long and a minimum of 10.9 or better yet 12.9 hardness.
I actually prefer to use a hex head bolt in both of my engines when I replaced them and they are torqued using a 1/4" drive 6 point head 10mm deep well socket but I had access to a wide selection of hardware through my work and could get the hex head in both 10.9 and 12.9 hardness.
However most people use the black Allen Headed bolts. Like in the picture below. If you can find the lower profile reduced height heads without the knurling on the outsides even better.
Notice in the first picture the replacement bolts like you want are on the left and the factory one with the smaller hole in the center of the hex drive hole on the right you can see that second hole is so deep that it goes down below the head of the bolt and partly into the shank, making the shank of the bolt just under the head hollow. That's why these bolts stretch.
The last picture is 1 of my own engine flywheels getting the screws changed out on 1 of my engines. You can see I am actually installing the hex headed bolts in the picture and using my 3/8" drive dial type torque wrench with a 1/4" adaptor and the deep socket to tighten them down. its tight but there is enough space to use a hex head bolt in place of the Allen head cap screws.
Torque to no more than 14-15 NM, if using 12.9 hardware or torque to about 12-13NM if you use 10.9 hardness screws. Use an equivalent to #262 Red Loctite compound and clean the holes out with brake cleaner very well after removing the old factory screws first.
Just a quick question : I have a BMW Motorrad shop 500 yard away from my home. Do you think that they can sell the upgraded screw there?
I recall in the BMW software that there was a recall operation so BMW must have some upgraded screw. Does it worth going there as it is much easier for me than going to a hardware store
No, The factory gasket kit from BMW has the 6 screws included in the package, They are exactly the same. The gasket kit is actually labeled as "generator or alternator repair kit". It also has the new flywheel nut, washer, the 9 flat washers that go with the side cover screws, the 2 hollow dowel alignment sleeves for the side case, and the woodruff key for flywheel removal. Lots more stuff than you will need. What ever you do don't use the factory screws again. The side cover gasket is shim steel so it can be re-used again. I lightly spray mine with copper coat gasket spray each time I re-use one of these gaskets.
You should ask the local BMW dealership about the problem as there was a technical service bulletin recall on this problem that was honored more so in Europe than it was here in the US. You might get lucky and they will do it for you. But I wouldn't let that happen if they insist on using the factory style screws again. Also they will again over torque them following the misprinted information in the Rep-Rom repair CD service manual, that says to torque them to 25NM which is clearly way to high of a torque spec for any M6 sized fastener, even on the other torque specs for M6 fasteners listed on the same page in their own manual. Look up any universal torque spec chart on the internet for standard 10.9 and 12.9 hardness Metric fasteners under the M6 size fastener column, you will see for yourself.
This could get interesting. Let us know what happens.
There was a member on here that got the dealer to do the job for him by appointment about a year ago so some dealers are still willing to look up the bikes serial number and do the repair free of charge.
Hello Badaboum, check this video : https://youtu.be/3bWtoYm563M
The procedure and torque in the Reprom CD is changed by the factory recall from BMW. Several recalls were made by the factory, but till now I don't have the full list of BMW factory recall. My 2008 G450X have 2 free intervention recalls, including the alternator screws. Honestly when I went speak with the very nice workshop foreman of my BMW dealer who normally does not have the right to speak with customers he confessed to me that these motorcycles were not really well known in the dealer BMW networks. BMW bought Husqvarna to try to take the KTM market. Husqvarna developed the engine with BMW. I don't know the Husqvarna dealer network but I think that it must have been the same story before BMW sell the Husqvarna company to KTM group and the downgraded 449cc engine at CCM motorcycle https://www.ccm-motorcycles.com/bikes/gp450-adventure/ . In this BMW forum and in the forum http://www.cafehusky.com there are addicted of our BMW G450X who accumulate years of experiences that you will not find anywhere else.
I have seen the video from David Bates. I am just surprised to see that the official BMW kits screw are almost the same as the original faulty one. Very small screw head
I did find online some compatible screw with a 6mm head. I have ordered them to compare them with the BMW
The screws that you have in the pictures that came in the alternator gasket repair kit are the same junk screws that are used from the factory during initial assembly. They are not upgraded, they will stretch or snap clean off at the head.
I have seen the video from David Bates. I am just surprised to see that the official BMW kits screw are almost the same as the original faulty one. Very small screw head
I did find online some compatible screw with a 6mm head. I have ordered them to compare them with the BMW
I don't have an answer for you here.
My turn signals and the switch's for them were removed from the bike by the previous owner, long before I even bought my G450X.
Thanks. i will see if I can get some screws from my computer, they are usually 1.4 or 2Mm.
Big news, I am spending 2 weeks in our country house and was therefore able to use my bike yesterday.
1) Rotor screws repair
I have opened my 2 engines (one that is new and one that have 6000 miles) and swapped the defective BMW factory screws with the one recommended by Dangermouse and you.
The 25Nm on the new engine are still there. On the one that I use now, I am defenetly not at 25Nm. Maybe 15. Changed all 12 screws. All good. I had some issue getting the cover out on the old engine. My stator is not damaged !! ouff
Anyway thanks for the news. I feel safer now
2) I was trying to get the turn signal stock back on, but the previous owner seems to have had played with the harness upfront, . i am having hard time identifying the wire. Can you help me identify what cable is what ? I might have to create the connector back as I do no see the connector where the turn signal stock connects
3)
I also have 2 wire that have been cut ''and protected''. Don't know what they are. Can you help?
4) I have the RSD now, is there a way to see the full harness diagram of the bike? On my japanese bikes I have on the final page a nice drawing of the harness and all the wire colors
5) After my ride this morning, my radiator fan kept on for like 1h. I think the temperature sensor is broken. I assume it is the one the inner part of the bottom radiator (the one on the outside is the level warning?)
Is this a common issue? It drained my battery down
I hope the picture of the bottom stator bolt in the group of 4 laying in a row are the type of Allen head stator bolts you have actually installed. The other 2 pictures are showing the old ones, right?
The coolant temp sensor is the one to the outside. Its the one that activates the radiator fan. The pair of wires are black on my bike. You can follow the plugs wires and it should lead up to the coolant fan on the radiator.
However, the question is why the fan is remaining on after the bike is shut down for more than a about a minute. It should shut down the fan when the ECU times out and shuts down itself.
The sensor to the inside is the engine Temperature switch. It has the pair of brown wires. It sends engine temp information to the ECU for fueling control such as needed to set a richer fuel mixture for cold starting, etc.
I believe both of these switches activate at 180 degrees fahrenheit.
You can test whether the coolant temp switch is open or closed with a multimeter by doing a continuity check with the bike shut off and cold. Again why it runs after the ECU has shut down is the question.
You can also remove the radiator cap and use a probe type kitchen thermometer to check the coolants temperature while warming up the bike on a center stand. The coolant level should be nearly level with the top of the radiator cores tubes. You may have to add a bit of coolant to effectively be able to probe the actual temperature of the circulating coolant while its warming up. If the sensor is functioning at 180 degrees it should activate, if it's not doing anything at 180 degrees Fahr; then the switch is likely bad. Until this wiring issue is sorted out, Just pull the wire off of the outer coolant temperature sensor switch to stop the fan so it doesn't continue running while sorting out the rest of the wiring.
I don't have a good picture of the wire harness, maybe someone will ring in here and get that for you. Perhaps our member bello650 "Pascal" can give us a picture of the wire schematics, he's good at finding stuff like that.
The wires for the turn signals behind the headlight have all been removed, not just clipped or cut off, on my bike by the previous owner who owned the local BMW dealership closest to me. They were eliminated from the harness by one of his technicians that also had a G450X, so I really have nothing to reference when it comes to the turn signals on my bikes wire harness.
Perhaps our member bello650 "Pascal" can give us a picture of the wire schematics, he's good at finding stuff like that.
Here in my Dropbox you will find the file called BMW_G450X_Wiring_Diagram_13.pdf https://www.dropbox.com/sh/97teznos5...96tckeHDa?dl=0
For your fan problem you will see on the electrical wiring schematic that the fan is activated by a thermostat switch. Corrosion on the connectors is a well know problem. In your case I will suspect the problem from the thermostat himself.
The pictures actually show 4 BMW factory screw and 1 ''upgraded one'' (at the botom). The rotor pictures shows the BMW factory screws before upgrade with one screw removed (going 1 by 1).
Regarding the radiator fan, I actually finished my ride, parked the bike outside to let it dry a little bit before getting it into the garage and then went dealing with the kids. When I came back a few hours later I heard that the fan was actually still turning but at very slow speed like with a dying battery. Pretty weird. I assumed that the sensor was faulty and sent the signal above 180° F even if the temperature was down. But it was too late to pull the plug off. I will be obviously more careful next time and will undergo an inspection of the switch connector
Thanks for the diagram, I will get dig into it.
Does anyone has a picture of his bike ''behind'' the light? I am afraid that i have some missing hardness/connectors and would like to compare it besides checking the diagram
I only see the picture of the 4 screws, I did notice the bottom one having a thicker head. So I knew it was 1 of the replacements
I didn't count any picture of 4 BMW factory screws and 1 "upgraded one".
Done the re-wiring. have 2 indicators on !! I can ride on the road safely.
I have a quick question. To be able to do my electrical tests I had to turn the engine on every time. Quite annoying
I found a solution to put the ignition on without actually starting the engine in the manual but it is not working on mine. Just want to be sure if I am missing something:
''Slide high-beam switch 1 upward, then press headlight flasher button 2''
or
''Briefly press starter button 2''
The ECU shuts itself off after within about 45 seconds to a minute after the bike is shut down.
Don't know what's going on with your bike but the starter button should do the same thing as the headlight, high beam activation procedure to light up the ECU ?
I have changed the spark plug
I have changed the ignition coil
I have changed the oil filter
I have changed the air filter
I have changed the oil (of course)
I still have the same issue as before aka :
When I twist the throttle from idle ''smoothly'' : No issue
When I twist the throttle from idle ''very quickly' : The bike feels like it is dying.
I have added a video to help you understand my issue
Any idea what it can be?
The bike is swift to start, swift to run. I just have this issue re-accelerating from idle ''quickly''
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Originally Posted by badaboum
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