Husqvarna 449 Swap.

[Tims1572]

Today on Ebay I scored a 5 speed, like new 2011 TC 449 Husqvarna engine complete with hydraulic clutch actuater and lever assembly. It was said to have a total of approx. 10 hours and was pulled from a like new Husqvarna that was being parted out as the bike was said to not have a high enough retail value. To be sold complete that is. Every part but the forks and front wheel was listed. The ad showed pictures of the entire bike assembled with the ad listing the engine from the bike only as being sold and also pictures of the engine removed. This was from a Motorcycle dismantler in Michigan.

He couldn't have done much dirt riding as it still has the 15 tooth front sprocket on it and I would think that would be the first thing to go. Owner said he loved the bike but bought it as a left over late last spring but just wasn't a 450 guy. Claimed to have changed the oil each ride he took it out which was 3 or 4 times. I hope its not damaged in any way because its getting plugged into my G450X as soon as I ride it a time or 2 since my wrist got broke last July. Maybe a month or so I'll get back on it. Got to get the OK from my Doctor and cut loose to full duty at work before I get out and do that though. Doctor appointment next monday should find out what he has to say about it. To bad at 54 years old I don't bounce back like the plastics on my 450X. But just in case of that I have about 4 complete sets and 5 or 6 fenders each in that box of spare parts.

By the way the bike this engine was in, was pictured and was totally stock except for he installed an FMF pipe that was being sold as well, The sellers ad said the Forks and wheels had already been sold before everything else was listed after dissasembly. The pictures of the complete bike were showing everything as perfect shape, just a bit dirty, including the complete plastics and frame protectors. So I'm not to sure about a front end crash as the front wheel and forks were not available. He wouldn't tell me what happened to the bike or why he was parting it out all of the sudden. Its just a guess that he crashed and messed up the forks. Even the front fender looked perfectly good in the for sale pictures.

Everything else for this bike is listed and was available and very fair prices on all of it and like new in all the pictures for each individual item. Even the seat and all the plastics. So I took my chances and bought the complete engine and clutch lever assembly and shipping included was an even $1800.00.
It is sealed up and just the oil drained, The only things removed were the throttle body and no ECM the rest of this engine is sealed up and is complete. They are also available if needed but I should not need these items to install. The starter was included and shifter lever. I should be able to bolt this right in and go. By using my other stock throttle body and so on. The TC engine has revised camshafts that make more power than the standard 450 and they are 13 to 1 compression instead of 12 to 1 like ours and the 6 speed husky enduro motors. Meanwhile I'll build a big bore out of the 5 speed TC Husqvarna or my BMW motor as I believe they have a stronger and wider set of gears than the other TE style late model 6 speed husqvarna enduro engines and do a bit of porting on the head of the BMW engine is while it's checked out and dissasembled. It has about 133 hours or so. I will keep you all posted. the engine I bought well, It has buyer protection for 6 months through ebay and was described as like new and ran perfect so that makes me feel a bit better.
As you know what parts go for for these engines, like the Big Bore kit alone from Husqvarna about $800.00. Over $1000.00 for a like new cylinder head that was still used. BMW wants close to $1050.00 for the big bore kit which is the same thing. New aftermarket pistons and ring kits are 140.00 under parts for the Husqvarna 449 on ebay, these will work in our bikes but you won't see them on ebay under BMW G450X parts? Why that is I don't know, For the price of 1800.00 shipped I don't think I could go wrong. I'll soon find out. It ships Tuesday from Michigan and I will post some pictures as soon as it gets here. Than figure out how to use whats left of my tax return I am waiting for I'll have a few bucks left after that. I couldn't pass this up for the price and we will all know if it really is a direct swap here really soon.

[MudMan]

Hey Tim,

Can't wait to read of a successful swap. Good luck, buddy.

[Tims1572]

Hey Mud Man?
Any get offs in the jungle lately, hows the brake pedal. Theres 1 or 2 on ebay right now for about 50.00 bucks. I have been stocking up on the parts for the BMW lately. I haven't even rode it. My wrist is still healing and I haven't been out yet on it. I just went again to the doctor today but its doing good up to this point.
This motor is going to atleast keep it going for some time longer, it should be here in a few days or so. I hope it isn't hurt internally the seller claims only 10 hours of run time. You take your chances on a part like that though either way. But I couldn't let it get away for the price. Adios to my Tax return. Good to hear from you.. Tim

[MudMan]

Hey Tim,

Yeah i got a pedal off ebay bout a month back. Got her towed to a mechanic two weeks ago, will get the pedal replaced, speedometer swopped for a trailtech voyager with built-in GPS, and OUTEX Tubeless offroad rim set-up. I can barely wait to have her back.
On the tow truck.


Been out and about in the jungle, not as much 'fun' cos I been doin it on my GSA. No easy feat...
But achievable all the same.
Some pics to share.




Good to hear the wrist is healing well. I'm sure you'll be back to it in no time.
How's the swap comin along? Still waiting to hear the gospel truth from ya.

Jerome

[Tims1572]

Awesome pics Jerome. Looks like fun.Are the guys on foot there just for the entertainment value or do they actually go in to help get you out if you get stuck like the other picture. Looks like some killer riding there for sure Love the pics. I pulled the rocker cover off the Husky motor to check the valve clearance and everthing looks fresh and clean and well within specs. it looks good. I don't know if I'll swap it out right away or not I may put a few more miles first on my BMW motor until it needs another Torque limiter installed in it.

I installed the clutch actuator and bled the lever and slave cylinder with the lever mounted on a broomstick so I could hold it level and fill the resevoir it works great it feels different than the cable set up for sure I 'll have to put it in and run it to see if its better than the cable to really know for sure. while I was at it I bled the brakes on my G450 front and rear as well while I was at it. They had gone a little soft after sitting so long. Air in the front one for sure. Glad you found the brake pedal. I'll just pry mine out a little or bump it on my pressbrake at work to kink it out for the other motor if the side case didn't stick out enough already the Husky one sticks out another 3/8 inch or more than the BMW one. I just got today a perfect set of replacment forks tripleclamps and bearings delivered today in excellent condition for 199.00 shipped for spares so I can send off to racetech or somebody to get revalved for my 240lbs. riding weight. can't change over to the current WP Units for under a 1000.00 or more as much as I would like to but then I would have to change or modify the front axle and or change the front wheel to a KTM unit which will cost even more Money.

[Tims1572]

Jerome,
Here are some pics of the Husky 449 motor that will soon be going into the G450X. My bike now has only 113 total hours, I thought it had more than that because I never look at it while riding because my front number plate tool bag I usually carry all the time covers the gauge half the time anyway as it has a flap over the top of the plastic number plate sewn into it so it doesn't hang or sag down and cover the headlight while riding. Hence the photo with the polysport front fender and Acerbis blue colored spotlight headlight conversion setup. It is lower and not so tall but it isn't actually street legal. It won't be a problem here where I live as the cops don't take notice to things like that. Instead you just get chased around occasionally by the Border Patrol instead when your out on the trails riding. Thats not a problem because I work for them and they are always surprised when I pull over anyway after some fun and games and pull off my helmet and they recognize its me and they see who it is. One time on a Saturday, I was riding down along the Borderline fence on the International boundary line and I stopped for a Border Patrol Agent blocking the Border road flagging me down and when he realized it was me he actually said " You were able to get them to buy you a dirtbike to check for breaches in the fence?" I just laughed because thats what my primary job used to be, is repair the holes, breaches and cut down sections of the fence done by the drug smugglers. I used to work on the weekends but not anymore. I don't play cat and mouse with them chasing me much because they tear up and wreck enough vehicles here already and I have to get along with all the mechanic technicians in the garage. I could just here them saying in there report that they were chasing what turned out to be Tim on his BMW dirt bike and they ran the truck off into a ditch or something. As funny as that would be on the report forms, I would never hear the end of it and would probably lose my job when the word got back around or I decided to turn back to check to see if he's alright would be even worse. This is really some rough country here, so I probably have enough replacement new plastics to last a very, very long time, like 4 or 5 each of most panels and fenders, and several other parts as well, including a complete stock front fork assembly with triple trees, new spare front and rear shock springs, complete Leo Vince' rear exhaust, spare headpipe, I run the Leo headpipe as it doesn't hang as far out to the side and is better tucked away.I have spare front and rear sprockets, air and oil filters, a spare fuel pump, spare new torque limiter, new swing arm bearings, new set of clutchplates, old stock spare seat, new set of Cycra barkbusters, grips, all the things that occasionally need to get replaced. I still have some other spares put away in some boxes at my shop a few blocks away. This is just the stuff sitting in my garage at my house. Too much stuff..
The thing I like the best about the Husqvarna motor other than the Hydraulic clutch lever and actuator design, which is supposed to be self adjusting, even though the lever itself is adjustable like our juice front brake lever is. Is that the shifter lever is about an inch longer than the BMW shifter and mine is to damn close to the pegs now. So I will use the Husky shifter lever on the BMW as long as it will position up and down comfortably as the splines are a bit coarse on these things. It seems if you move it up one notch on the splines its too damned high, if you move it one notch down, its too low. I guess I got big feet, (size 12) when I have on my riding boots and have always hated the shifter position even though I got fastway pegs mounted in the lower, rearward position.
Anyway heres the "Gospel Truth" that you were asking for. I think once I decide my BMW motor is tired and needs to have a going over I will surely be able to put something together thats out of all this stuff, then I'll be afraid to ride it and tear it up, so I'll just end up putting on an old beat up set of plastics again to ride. That's why I have so many plastics to begin with. I'll probably always save the new ones with the Speedbrain Graphics on them, to install if I decide or need to sell the bike if I have to or just store it away that way. These are there BMW factory raceteam Last Edition Graphics and are no longer available from them. They only made 32 sets of these sticker graphics in the first place from what I was told by them. The blue front fender pictured is a rare piece also but they still have a few still left last time I checked the Speedbrain Website. These were the only piece made out of blue plastic for these bikes by Acerbis for Speedbrain only. They made complete sets of black plastics that were often installed by dealers when the bikes were showroom new at the time of sale and stock whites were left on the shelves at many dealerships. Why the new owners did that I don't know but it made it different and thats what I like about these bikes. I have contacted many dealerships and found new plastics left in there parts warehouses they didn't even know they had if you could get them to look. I have picked them up for less than half of what new ones cost or I didn't buy them on more than a few occasions. These bikes just don't get lost in a parking lot full of dirt bikes like most other brands do. These bikes as you know usually attract a group of riders that have plenty of questions and comments. Some good, some bad but then I just consider what they are probably riding and I'm good with that, just to know I'm not riding a generic throw away bike like some of them are. The other more common brands seem impossible to personalize. As some one on the next street over will soon move in with the same bike if they don't live there already. Do you know what I'm saying.
Anyway yesterday I had some trouble sending some of the selected pictures. They wouldn't download at all, with all things being the same as every other time I have posted pics like this, even with my camera settings being the same etc. and I have even told others how to do post pictures when they were having trouble at it as. No matter what I tried it wouldn't work. I even finally contacted the site administrators for some help but didn't get a reply as of yet, so I figured out another way to do it. I took them from my picture files and emailed them as attachments to myself and then downloaded them and shrunk down the size of each of them and saved them again in my download files this time and then was able to reattach them again here by uploading from my Download files instead of my picture Library. I figured the reason it wouldn't let me upload them was because when I saved them from my camera they were to large and the site has limitation restrictions on this sort of thing.

[Tims1572]

I recently got some information on the revised 5 spd gearbox ratios of the Husqvarna TC 449 engine in the above pictures I intend to swap into my G450X. I now run a 13 front and 48 rear sprocket set up. At times I wish 1st gear was still a bit lower and have a 49 tooth sprocket I have thought about installing but haven't done so. The main reason I wanted to do this is to move the rear wheel forward a bit on the swing arm mainly just to help make it maybe a bit easier to loft the front wheel over obstacles. I get into some rough technical long rocky hill climbs that require some very slow forward movement through the really bad rock sections to get back your momentum. The BMW has gear ratios internally as follows from my research.
1st gear has a 2.462 ratio, it has (32/13)gearset.
2nd gear has a 1.706 ratio, it has (29/17)gearset.
3rd gear has a 1.358 ratio, it has (27/20 gearset.
4th gear has a 1.043 ratio, it has (24/23) gearset.
5th gear has a 0.883 ratio, it has (22/25) gearset. and is an overdrive ratio, wish it was taller but it isn't. As I said my final drive is a 13 front and 48 rear. Primary drive from the crank to the transmission is the same on both engines which is a 2.618 to 1 primary reduction.

My information on the Husqvarna TC 5 spd. gearbox was from info on the 2012 version and I have the 2011 model I don't believe anything has been changed but I'm not sure. These are more motocross related gear ratios. They are as follows.
1st gear has a 2.286 ratio, it has (32/14) gearset.
2nd gear has a 1.875 ratio, it has (30/16) gearset.
3rd gear has a 1.533 ratio, it has (23/15) gearset.
4th gear has a 1.260 ratio, it has (29/23) gearset.
5th gear has a 1.043 ratio, it has (24/23) gearset
Standard sprocket selection is a 15 front, with a 53 rear I believe, I have seen it advertised as different than that though like as small as a 50 on the back throughout the 3 year production. I am thinking to run a 14 tooth front and the 48 or 49 rear. top speed will be lower than it was with the BMW engine but not such large gaps in between gears requiring the front 13 tooth to do what I do with it.

I may have to stay off some of the slow tecnical stuff as before or abuse the clutch a bit more. When I bought the Husky engine it still had the stock front 15 tooth on it and I may try it out as well. 1st gear is going to be taller than the BMW but top speed will be there even though high gear is not an over drive ratio. I may combine gear box ratios at some point to get the top gear back to an overdrive and this could be done. Notice the BMW 4th gear ratio is the same as the 5th on the TC Husky engine. I am looking for advise as to what you think I should do for the final drive or should I just get used to installing the other engine before I go riding to suit the locations requirements? A big bore kit for sure on one of the engines, probably the BMW engine as it has 113 hours and my Husky engine has a claimed 10 hours. Not to sure whether to believe that claim but I have checked it out pretty well and everyhing looks fresh as could be. I have performed a differential leakdown test and checked the valve lash clearances etc. all good. 1 of the Intake valves clearance is out to about .009 mm cold, but its within spec still the other Intake valve is closer to .007 to 008mm with .012mm lash being the maximum clearance allowable according to the manuals but reshimming isn't needed yet and who knows what it was new as long it was within specification and still is.
Exhaust lash is much more critical as when it is too little or under spec clearance, it will burn the exhaust valves as they don't spend enough time on the valve seat to dissapate heat.

Time to get to swapping and riding again/ I go to the Dr. on Tuesday and hope he gives my wrist the OK to atleast do a little trailriding with wrist braces of course and all the other safety gear as well.

If this all doesn't work out as planned I may start building a gearbox from spare parts from each transmission to get the best of both worlds. I really don't want the 6spd gearbox as the gears are much more narrow and skinny in width compared to the 5 spd. but I think that might be the only and best option. To get the top speed in high gear I want and the low 1st gear ratio I like and 2nd gear with out such a big gap between gears as the BMW is known for. Plus I'm fat, at about 235lbs. plus all my riding gear added.
I think I ought to start doing engine swaps to get this down to a science. As much as fabricating some specialized lifts for holding up the frame cross tube behind the engine lower mount that the skid plate mounts to. Special lifts etc. to hold the bike up and support the swing arm with out total separation of these components to streamline this process. I have some work to do and I have 2 messed up shoulders and a healing wrist.
I know what I'll be doing pretty soon though. I'll keep you updated, looks like I have a lot of figuring out to do. On the BMskiVarna. I can't exactly go out and really get to wrenching as my Boss from work stops by sometimes on the weekend and I am on light duty at work still so I can't be doing to much heavy tearing into anything without him finding out about it. So I got to wait for the Dr's OK. I am dying to get back out there. Just sold 1 of my custom choppers last week as it had semi ape hanger bars on it and it hurt to much for me to reach up and actually ride it as my shoulders are messed up. So its shipping out to Massachusetts in a couple weeks.

[afmull]

The BMW has gear ratios internally as follows from my research.
1st gear has a 2.462 ratio, it has (32/13)gearset.
2nd gear has a 1.706 ratio, it has (29/17)gearset.
3rd gear has a 1.358 ratio, it has (27/20 gearset.
4th gear has a 1.043 ratio, it has (24/23) gearset.
5th gear has a 0.883 ratio, it has (22/25) gearset. and is an overdrive ratio, wish it was taller but it isn't. As I said my final drive is a 13 front and 48 rear. Primary drive from the crank to the transmission is the same on both engines which is a 2.618 to 1 primary reduction.

I find the 5th gear tall enough, especially after last weekend, I found a huge flat plain on my property and thought i might just crank it as fast as she'll go. I looked down at the speedo and it showed 170km/h (105mph) and I don't think I quite hit the limiter, coz I came to some rougher ground and trees so I had to pull up. I'm running 14 front 51 rear sprockets which is pretty much the same ratio as 13/48 and the rear tyre is the same profile as the one it came with stock. I am still doubting that speedo reading though, I thought I wouldn't get much past 150, I might have to get a cop to speed gun me one day (on private land )

[BiG DoM]

Just use a GPS for the speed - most acurate.

[Tims1572]

What I meant was I wish the high gear on the Husky engines 5th gear ratio was taller, as it is 1.043 to 1, its the same final ratio as the BMWs 4th gear is. Its 1st gear ratio is taller than the BMW is and all those gears are spaced much closer together. Thats great except the gear box has no overdrive in high gear as the BMW really is. 0.883 to 1. So sprocket selection will be critical to having the best possible combination like I said either take both motors or lots of sprockets to new riding places with me. I'll get it sorted. It goes to the old saying "You got to try it you might like it".
I've heard of the BMW's going over 100mph or a bit more momentarily but that was with a 15 front and 48 or so on the back. Who needs to really go that fast on the dirt or trails unless your racing in the desert or something like Dakar. I don't ride that fast.

[Tims1572]

A New torque limiter was installed on this Husky engine whether it needs it or not even though the motor only had about 10 hours on it or thats what was claimed. and measurements were made of the clutch pack and fibre,metal plates to compare with the BMWs clutch. As there was a post awhile back about someone installing the Husky plates into the BMWs clutch and had to go buy the BMWs plates after all because the bike wouldnt move forward or engage at all. Heres why!

There is a big difference in plate thickness. the steels are .080 thick on the BMW engines clutch and the fibres are .120 thick. On the other hand the Husky engine plates measure .065 thick on the steels and .105 on the fibres 6 of each. I measured the total thickness of the plates stacked up with out the final drive plate included and the BMWs stack was 1.200 thick and the Huskys plate stacked up to measure a total of 1.060 with out the final drive plate. I didn't bother to measure the final drive plate thickness from either set of plates, as they look the same but I did measure the entire BMW stack with the drive plate and the 6 each fibres and steels and it was 1.400 thick. I measured the depth of the Husky clutch basket with a depth gauge and it is 1.400 deep so it is shallower than the BMWs clutch basket altogether by about .140 inch the husky plates although they will fit in the BMWs basket it is true it will not engage forward as has been tried before. The clutch cover with the hydraulic actuator for the Husky engine is a bit taller. I dont know why that is and I have measured it. The inner case seems to be the same. I've had both off to do torque limiter changes but I have to bend out the brake pedal about a 1/4" to 3/8" inch for case clearance on the Husky engine installation with the hydraulic actuation. This seems funny to me because the clutch on the Husky is narrower. Why would the clutch cover itself stick out further, when the clutch is narrower and not as deep by more than an eighth inch altogether. The clutch slave cylinder bolts onto the outside of the Huskys side cover its not built in or is there any reason I can figure out why this is. All I can figure is, It must hold a bit more oil, and that I haven't checked in the specs for the Husky manual either so don't have to correct me on that or look it up I have a case of oil and new filters so I will fill it until it says its full and thats it. I 'm not measuring what I pour in it, it doesn't matter to me aslong as it's full O.K. Maybe it holds a tiny bit more but to summarize the rest of my research side by side. Engine to Engine.

I don't think you could swap on the Husky's hydraulic clutch actuator cover to convert your BMW to the hydraulic set up unless you also install the Husky's clutch basket to go with that set up or it won't work either. The clutches are that much different. From my observations and research though the "Suter brand slipper clutch assembly". which is used to keep the rear wheel from sliding coming into turns and causing rear wheel chatter and allows for more controllable brake slides. As well as the EFM brand auto clutch model that is similar to a Rekluse brand auto clutch which allows the bikes clutch to engage centrificully with a ramped ball mechanism and uses belleville washers to adjust its engagement point or different ball diameters. Its made of billet aluminum costs about 680.00 and is adjustable at which ever RPM within reason that you want it to engage at and actually renders the lever inoperable and can be removed altogether and replaced with a single rear brake lever on the clutch side if you like. The brake pedal can actually be removed from the right side. This set up you cannot stall the engine no matter what you do in technical sections or climbing hills. It Only stalls if you hit the kill switch and you just hit the start button again and give it throttle and your off again. It can't be push started, ever.

Both of these companies aftermarket product will fit either bikes and the part numbers are the same for each model bike clutch respectively from each companies own parts list, although they both do different things. They are adjustable and you take the final 2 drive plates out to install these units. Thats why I say I believe the final wierd profile shaped final drive plate is the same thickness about .140" thick I forgot to measure each to check, my mistake for the sake of this info, it makes sense. The diaphram spring clutch cover costs a bunch but it is a trick piece. If you can say $1190.00 or so is inexpensive and that Suter billet steel clutch cover drops into the clutch basket and is recessed. Just like the stock ones do. The Suter slipper unit it is made of hardened steel billet and is the smallest diameter clutch they make. This unit in fact sources there diaprham springs from the stock parts listings for their unit to keep costs and supply down, If you consider 1190.00 low cost. That is for just the cover hat for the clutch and it has the Patented slipper mechanism built in. Its the bomb and is used extensively in supermoto especially but Motocross as well. Virtually most all types of road race bikes run such a clutch. Thats how you see them backing it in to the corners with out the rear wheel hop associated with early downshifts as you know or have experienced.

The cushion mount for the gas tank to left side cylinder showed up this afternoon so the engine will get installed tomorrow. Mine was a bit cracked from the AZ dry desert on the 133.5 hour old BMWs engine I took out. I Have all the new swingarm bearings, seals and everything else to install it right now just waiting for daylight. The isolater rubber cushion mount can't be screwed into the head with the engine in place without removing the fuel tank. So I had to wait for it to get here. it came today so its on. I have a 3 day weekend to get it installed. and I don't want to do anything "Half Assed" as they say. Even if it looks that way to someone it will be done right or it won't be done at all. I will post pictures taken earlier of the clutch opened up and torque limiter install on the Husky engine I did the last weekend and the stripped BMW out of the chassis. 4 hour job to do it that so far. I find it hard to work and stop to take pictures when I'm concentrating on wrenching. I can't wait to get it in and rip it up. The BMW engine will get a good freshening up and a big bore kit and another new torque limiter. I just got the "new part number" torque limiter through Bike Bandit for 158.00 and the gasket set and this limiter is the only one I have seen stamped 237 NM thats the highest Number Breakaway point yet I have seen on one of these parts. I photographed the one removed and the one I installed and they were like 227 NM and 224 NM respectively. The inner bearing in the case for the torque limiter is a sealed on one side roller on the Husky and the older model NEW one I had put away is open on both sides, no seals. The new one I just recieved from Bike bandit is also sealed on one side only now also just like the Husky had in it and the parts are in BMW boxes? go figure, I'll post tomorrow on my progress its going to be a hot one tomorrow. 100 plus.

[Tims1572]

The Husky engine is totally in and all I have to do is install the radiator and coolant and engine oil and put on the airfilter and side panels up front and seat back on and clean and mount the skid plate. It will get fired up in the morning. I'll post pictures. Some thing I had mentioned before about this swap. The brake pedal from the G450X had to be kinked out just a little bit to clear the side cover on the huskys clutch cover. About 1/4 inch is all. It's fine, it wasn't hard to bend it to where I needed it to be.

Another thing I had mentioned and said I was going to do was use the Husky shift pedal. I have always thought the stock shift pedal was too short and too close to the footpegs. I use Aftermarket "Fastway" pegs and I have them in the lower position downward and back. The stock shifter is a beefy piece it's aluminum and I found if you mount it up higher on the spline to get your riding boot under it. I wear A size 12 boot. the shifter would hit and interfere with the chain case saver boss on the low end of the case saver. It can't be set in a good position for me and it can't be shifted up at all in the next higher splined setting, as it hits and gets hung up. It won't go up a gear at all if you move it on the splines up one more notch. I know its too high there anyways but it will not function at all and allow the bike to shift unless moved back down in either of one or the other useable positions. Its still to close for my liking. It could be bent but I solved the problem by throwing it in a box and not even trying to use it at all.

The Huskys shifter for the 449 is about 1 1/4 inch longer over all and has a kink in it to clear the threaded boss all together on the bottom of the case saver and will shift up or down no problem. It works way better than the stock lever and is definately worth buying even if it is expensive. No I didn't look up the price I didn't have to and since no company that I know of makes a replacement for the BMW G450X the option is, use the Husky model shifter pedal as nothing else is available to stick on there unless you fabricate and or weld the thing and extend it longer. I will take a few pictures of this tomorrow and show what I am talking about before I put the skid plate back on for you all to see. Its a better piece for sure. I have found though that the Husqvarna shifter petal although shaped different than the BMWs unit. If it's mounted too high on the splines though it will rub on the stiffening ribs cast into the cases around the Countershaft bearing support bulge on the cases at the 6:00 o'clock position below the sprocket and will not allow the bike to be upshifted. So it has to be mounted 1 notch down on the spines in a lower position. Atleast it is a bit longer than the stock shift pedal. It works very well though.

I'll sort through the pictures. I didn't take to many as I don't like my phone sitting out on the work bench when I'm spraying brake cleaner and cleaning and greasing parts but I have some good pics and I'll get them on here tomorrow after firing it up.
Tim

[Tims1572]

Got the Husqvarna TC449 engine all in and it fired up right away. It sounds crisp, runs even better. I'm now running a 14 front and 48 rear and it cracks off 4th gear wheelies up the street easy. It should be a beast out in the dirt. I have to start running a bit of octane booster if I really want it to perform, as its got a 13 to 1 compression ratio and the BMWs got a more conservative 12 to 1 ratio. It seems to run just fine with the ECM and fuel injection unit from the BMWs stock set up and all the electrical plugs for the crankshaft position sensor and stator assembly on the Husqvarna's engine plug right in directly to the BMWs wire harness with no modifications whatsoever.

Easy swap if you can get your hands on a spare engine. I can now build a big bore set up and go through and freshen up the BMW engine which now has only 133.5 hours. I'm now running the Royal Purple 10w/40w oil in it also and the bike while it was hanging from the rafters with tie downs, got all new swing arm bearings and all the seals and countershaft seals as well all changed during this swap. Thats the time to do it. The steering head bearings are all new as well since I just finished the front end swap a couple weeks back.

I can't wait to take it out and ride it. Here are some pictures with the new WP 48mm forks all on and the Husky installed and the engine all done. It has to have a name now that it's crossbred and modified, I like that kind of stuff. So for right now I have some 7" or 8" long Husqvarna stickers coming in the mail to go right over the top of the BMW logo's on my most worn out set of plastics I normally keep on the bike and I got some new WP fork stickers as well because Race Tech stripped off the WP suspension upper leg stickers from the WP legs and put their own stickers on. I'll cut down the WP stickers and put them on the lower leg protectors.

It's nice, No more bottoming out up front anymore, it feels good. I need to suit up and ride it now to see how well it works but only with all my riding gear on or forget it. I'll have to creep up on it a bit at a time when I ride it for the first time, because its completely different than it was before. Better for sure. I was too heavy with all my gear on when I was riding it before. I was about 265 lbs.and though I have lost about 35 pounds now my riding gear adds about 30 pounds at least with a tool pouch and other gear and a hydration pack. The .52 Kg spring seems like its going to be perfect. The BMWs marzochhi's forks I had, had the heaviest spring I could get at a .48 Kg spring rate and it bottomed out too easy. Even after a complete revalve. The stock forks are terrible for my size and weight. I now weigh about 230lbs.

I'm going to be selling 2 complete sets of 09 black BMW Marzochhi 45mm forks and triple trees on E bay soon. With 1 complete front wheel, a complete brake lever, hose and caliper assembly. I already have a few proper size boxes to ship them out. 1 set I have had been extensively worked on by "Dicks Racing Suspension. I just couldn't ride it at my weight with out it bottoming out all the time. I had to back off the throttle all the time knowing It was going to take a big hit and I was reluctant to ride it hard. They have the heaviest available spring rate installed, a .48KG spring set from RaceTech I installed myself and the other set as well. they may have had the same spring rate as I put in myself but they were not marked and all i could do is Mike the diameter with a caliper and count the coils and see how many helixez theset of each springs had. the former owner was a big guy also.I replced the springs anyway and had nothing to compare to though so i put the new ones in and they still were abit soft for my fatass. So both sets of the stock forks got to GO BYE BYE!

I don't really want to list these items for sale here on the classified section of this website even though thats the best place to sell such items! I am not even discussing cost of these setups on this post. As it is considered "Soliciting" to some people and I don't want any people thinking that I am trying to take advantage of the members on here and the forum's community. As one particular individual referred to all the members as being "Poor people". I know thats ridiculous and I am in no way saying that about the members myself as it would be insulting. I'm just a bit more careful as to what I do on here anymore and say.. SO AGAIN I know its not true about the members being "Poor People" but it is what it is and thats what was said. So the forks and other parts I don't need will go to ebay for sale when I get to it.

Now its time to really rip because "Stock Sucks". The forks really do need to be upgraded, at least have them revalved. If your light weight enough and can get the spring rates correct for your body weight they can be set up well with some work done. I guess I was too fat to be riding this bike and wrenching on it is just as fun for me.

The other second set of 45mm Marzochhi forks I have, I only bought them off of ebay myself just to take measurements off of them so I could figure out what was needed to do the KTMs, WP 48mm conversion set up in my other thread. They are bone stock in excellent condition, 09" model black color legs also. They still have the yellow side reflectors on them for street use. The trees will be included with each set of legs.

I also have a GPR steering stabilizer billet bar riser set up to mount there V4 damper stabilizer for the BMW trees and it is for the fat 1-1/8" bars. The bottom plate is a one piece unit and the top piece is bridged and is one piece also.

A picture of the Husky's shifter is included to show the angled bend it has to clear the case saver. I can run the shifter lower now than the position I had the BMW shifter set atand not as high as before either because its longer and I can get my foot under it easier. Now what am I going to do next?? any suggestions for a name?? from the forum and lets keep it clean folks, BMWKTMsqvarna is just too long.

I hope you guys like the mods it was alot of work but it was very satisfying to do the work myself and not have to leave my house unless I ran a few blocks over to my Shop for tools that I didn't have here at my houses garage where I keep the dirt bike and live.

[Chris Mc]

Hi all,

I'm only new to this site. So please be patient with me ! Haha. . . I have a 09 g450 x and it's absolutely awesome ! Great bike, however I am doing some hunting as I seized my engine, and put the Con-Rod through the crank case. I am a fitter and more than capable of mechanics, I have just removed the motor and am considering my options. . . As the cost of replacement crank cases and crank, rod kit and bla bla bla I am very seriously considering just getting another motor Ie: husky !! I have found a 2012 TE511 ! I just wondering weather if I replace the wiring loom and ecu (maybe the loom and plugs are the same ?) with the motor as a compete unit weather the engine mounting points are the same ? Has anyone put a 511 in the g450 x frame ? I believe it's the same motor as the 449 with a bigger bore and a 6speed ? Any advice would be great ! I'll be back with more info once I get in contact with the current owner of the te511. . . I need to sus it out and want to know what to expect before jumping into anything to fast. I get that my understanding is limited at the moment, I have already learnt heaps but still need to learn more about the husky vs bmw engines ! Cheers and thanks.

[Campbell]

G'day Chris, straight swap, quite a difference in ratio's. My preference would be for the 5 speed, the 6 speed has a taller 1st and shorter 6th. The 5 speed can be swapped into the 511 I believe.

[Tims1572]

Yes, its a direct swap get the lever master cylinder and hydraulic hose for the clutch slave cylinder with the engine if you can. Or you will be buying these parts. You don't want to do that. You will need it.

Still running mine with a TC449 5spd close ratio engine, been a few years now. All the wiring plugs are exactly the same. Use the Husky shifter pedal too The BMWs is a little close to the pegs to me and the Husky shifter is just a bit longer. So if you can get it thrown in with the deal. get it too.

There is a sleeve in the lower right or left side ( can't remember which side now) of the bottom rear motor mount that's on the Husky engine that you won't need either. You will have to tap it out of the bored hole with a drift or a screwdriver from the opposite side. It will come out easily enough, then it will fit right into the BMW chassis. that's it. Go for it.

Notice also that the right side engine cover has a few of the screws countersunk on the husky case near the rear by the foot pegs. Front mounting case lugs on the Husky has a bracket bolted on to mount to the Husky frame mounts. It has to go, to mount your skid plate. Top of engine in the rear behind the cylinder has a sheetmetal bracket on the husky also that's not needed above the transmission . It can go.

Every thing else is a direct swap. Install a new torque limiter while you have the engine out. It would be money well spent and do the breather mod too.
Keep us posted of your progress.

[Campbell]

Yes, its a direct swap get the lever master cylinder and hydraulic hose for the clutch slave cylinder with the engine if you can. Or you will be buying these parts. You don't want to do that. You will need it.

Well at least your awake.
I forgot about the clutch.

[Tims1572]

Was I asleep Campbell? LOL

[SchillerM]

Chris, also look at the Husky crank. Same part way cheaper... If its an old 450 the flywheel might be key'd different, mine was, cost a bit more to do.
Even if you go new motor it might be worth the rebuild and keeping it on bench...
I have the big bore kit installed and enjoy it, can't say how much faster it is over stock, but it is fun!
Matt

[Tims1572]

Chris,

Did you get the TE 511 engine?

I believe you said, the Connecting rod was put through the cases, Husky Crankshaft is cheaper and the woodruff keyway slot is wider. But the cases on the bike have been ventilated from what I understand. Is that what happened to your cases, Chris? Not clear! If so are you going to part out the old engines usable components? Such as transmission, clutch, primary drive, etc.

These ( if they are) broken cases are of an unknown alloy and are not Tig weldable. I have 3 tig welders and have not tried welding on them myself (never had to) but from what I understand, all I can figure out is a proper filler rod has not been identified as of yet at the very least and I have been welding aluminum and it's alloys since 1975.

New cases for this engine are not cheap.

Starting over from scratch is even more expensive. Crate engines are still available from Speedbrain in Germany. I have a perfectly good complete G450 engine sitting on my bench. Looking back at my own posts it has an actual 133.5 hours. Not for sale though. Keeping it, just in case I end up at some future point that I need cases. In this case.

[gravelsurfer]

Hey Chris, having recently imported a crate motor from Speedbrain I can tell you how it worked out. Firstly, last time I looked they also offered the Husky version for the same price.
When you go to the Speedbrain site open an account, that way the prices will be displayed without the 20%VAT.
My engine was (Aussie dollars) $2500, plus $500 to crate and send. When it arrived Aust Customs hit me up for $300 in tax, so I had it in my hands for $3,300. My old engine would have been way more than that to fix, as it was due for bottom end anyway. I haven't pulled it apart yet but I intend to and will post the cause up when I do.
Let me know if you need any help with it..

Cheers
Chris

[Chris Mc]

Hi all,

Thanks for all the support and info ! Very much appreciated !!

Sorry about the long wait from my last post, been very busy. First of all Tim, the photos you have of your 449 conversion look great ! So, to answer a couple of questions from previous comments, yeah, the Conrod has snapped and punched a hole through the bottom of the crank case, damaging both sides and also busted up the top mounting bolt (and case), bent it about 4mm, which in turn made the removal of the engine rather difficult due to this bolt had to slide though the case and frame...anyhow, engine is out, I shall see if I can figure how to upload some photos soon. I have not stripped the engine yet, hope to do this on the weekend...

Moving on, the TE511 didn't go ahead (really annoyed !!), and as you guys pointed out, it's not worth repairing the original engine. I had thought about TIG welding the cases, but I agree, I can't find any info in regards to the casting and its material content, not to mention it is to far gone to repair anyway. So, I am still looking for a replacement engine. I had a look at speed brain website, and I think this is the best idea now. I have called so many places about a husky or g450x engine and there is not much going around in Aus. I mean, AU $3,300 is not that bad really, for a crate motor ! Work out a hell of a lot cheaper than overhauling the original engine. So, I am putting together my savings to order a motor from speed brain. The big question ! G450x or husky 449 ? Obviously I need to sort the hydraulic clutch, but that is simple enough, and that's is really... I am very tempted to go husky, just because it's not something you see offen... Any thoughts ?

Please keep me posted on your motor you brought from speed brain ! Would really appreciate any photo and info. Cheers Chris.

Also, if anyone has a spare motor they would like to sell, feel free to offer it to me ! Haha. . .

Thanks Guys.

Keen to get this awesome bike back on the tracks !!!

[Tims1572]

Yes I would say that is pretty well windowed.

No chance fixing those cases unless someone can do replacement work like a plastic surgeon. You can't re-generate the missing parts in a petri dish. Welding rod isn't going to do it. I have done plenty of reconstruction work on Harleys from blown primary chains on early iron head Sportsters and the same thing on old Maico's. Plenty of dirt bike cases back to the 70s but they were aluminum and I have done plenty of welding on some of the early Magnesium Volkswagon cases and Honda CR outer cases. Earlier water cooled Husqvarna's too that had corroded through water pump cavities, and clutch covers that got a disc cut out of them while running from the clutch spring screws backing out. All of which were Magnesium.

I have yet to strike an arc on the BMW / Kymco cases myself. I never had to so far. But I have a variety of filler rods available at my shop and would at some point like to determine myself why it is claimed these cases can't be welded. Determining what the alloying agent is, is a hit and miss process unless sent in to have it done by a metallurgist or just welding until you can find out what works.

I would like to fire up one of my Tig's and find out. Trying to repair main case mating surfaces on center cases is nearly cost inhibitive as the heat warpage can be enough alone to keep the crank from spinning freely on any set of cases when enough welding is done. The trick is a bit at a time and don't let it get so hot you can't lay your arm or hand on it within a few minutes of terminating an arc or short section of weld.

[gravelsurfer]

Chris, have you seen the engine cases that Speedbrain have on eBay? They'd only cost you $800 landed...
http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/271425115914

Gives you another option....

Cheers, Chris

[Chris Mc]

hey,

Yeah, I was looking at these cases on eBay Chris. I'm thinking buying a hole engine is still the most practical solution. I pulled down the motor an there is shrapnel everywear, just about everything is damaged. Anyway, I'll put some photos up soon. I'll be saving for a little longer yet, then I'll buy a speedbrain motor to replace and do up at this stage. Thank you all for your help ! Much appreciated !!! Any thoughts on this eBay bottom end ? Worth the rebuild or just go speedbrain ?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/BMW-G450X-Rall...060?nav=SEARCH

[Campbell]

Chris, another option http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-G450X-Ra...-/351533121060 has make an offer option, cylinder is also available....might be worth contacting.

Edit...sorry should have checked your link.