How much for a motor rebuild? - BMW G450X Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1

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    I started dropping power in the midrange and brought my bike to the dealership. They are recommending replacing the piston and crank for $3800 which I do not have. If I just replace the piston that is around $1500 if I remember correctly. My bike is a 2009 which is right around the 70hr service mark. I am afraid that this work is well beyond my wrenching abilities, but my checkbook doesn't stretch that far either.
    If the service cost is near the value of the bike and I will have to do it again in another 70hrs, I am not sure that I can afford this bike anymore. Any advice is welcome-thanks.

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  3. #2
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    Mine is in shop right now getting redone. While I am not 100% sure on whats going to be needed I can tell you a few things.. Crank itself is $700ish from BMW, $400 from Husky. I have not gone thru the bearings list or anything, but I assume Husky parts will be consistently cheaper. I saw 3rd party pistons online for $150ish vs $350ish BMW vs $300 Husky. Valves are $150 BMW, $100 Husky (assuming the are the same size).

    At a minimum I would get a new quote from a Husky dealer. They should understand that it is the same basic motor as the 449/511.
    BMW Chattanooga and ktm-parts.com are what I have been using for pricing. My local BMW dealer would meet or beat Chattanooga pricing if I went that route.

    I think I was quoted $400 for labor, I believe that included some crank mods for better oiling to help prolong life. I was planning on tackling the job myself until I was told $400. This is from ZipTy racing, who ran the 449/511 racing, and according to our own Tim, is the guru.

    2 other options.
    1. Buy another motor, new from Speedbrain for ~$2500, or used for under $1000 when they come up
    Tim got his 449 motor off ebay for $600ish I think he said.

    2. Talk to ZipTy racing in California and send them the motor. Shipping won't be free, but less than $3800 round trip I am sure

    Good Luck. Once I get more information about my motor rebuild in the coming weeks I will share.
    Matt
    2009 G450X - Akrapovic, Dirt & SM Wheels; 2007 G650X Country - Remus, Lowered 3" - Wifes ride; 2003 R1100S BoxerCup Replika - Laser, Ohlins, Carbon goodies; (FOR SALE) 1999 R1100S - Remus, Ohlins; 1989 K100RS - Remus, Fox 

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  5. #3
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    Piston and bore should go alot farther than that. There are 3 sizes of pistons, an A,B andC piston depending on which one it had to begin with and how much wear it has it can be replaced. It's a Nikasil bore a simple deglazing as a proper bore prep and a piston refit and new rings should be possible unless its Grenaded. A proper oil breather modification and recirculation/recovery system is a must for these engines also. You need to run 0w40w oil in them also. It along with the breather mod will make the Torque Limiter last alot longer. Look up the threads on this subject on this forum. I pulled my BMW engine at 133+ hard race miles and it ran perfect.

    Is your engine dead? Have you thought about a PowerCommander 5 with Autotune to pick up some horsepower? This totally transformed my bike and it rips. Check with ZipTy racing in Hesperia CA. you could ask for Danny. This is the home of Pro Racer Ty Davis. They have some trick parts for these engines and bikes trust me. They are currently rebuilding a new members bike on the G450 riders forum right now. They know more about these engines than probably anybody on the planet. I run the TC 449 Husky in my G450X myself and have my original spare engine also. it's going to get the treatment from them soon. I could do it myself and i'll be going with the Husky 477cc big bore kit and have some head work done by them also but they have a propietary crankshaft, bearing and rod modification that will make these engines near bulletproof. Check out they're WebSite. They are Husky racers, straight up and have been and still are advisors for the older BMW/Kymco based engine program and the new KTM based Husqvarna race program.I have no affiliation whatsoever with them. I have just reffered many people to them with these bikes.
    Simple as that.
    They are the best.
    You can buy a complete brand new crate engine with the headpipe and shift lever ready to drop in from Speedbrain in Germany for 2200.00 Euros. plus 19% shipping. I no thats steep but it's brand new and you can choose from the 6 spd. Husky 449 or the BMW wide ratio 5 spd engines at the same price.

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  7. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchillerM View Post
    Mine is in shop right now getting redone. While I am not 100% sure on whats going to be needed I can tell you a few things.. Crank itself is $700ish from BMW, $400 from Husky. I have not gone thru the bearings list or anything, but I assume Husky parts will be consistently cheaper. I saw 3rd party pistons online for $150ish vs $350ish BMW vs $300 Husky. Valves are $150 BMW, $100 Husky (assuming the are the same size).

    At a minimum I would get a new quote from a Husky dealer. They should understand that it is the same basic motor as the 449/511.
    BMW Chattanooga and ktm-parts.com are what I have been using for pricing. My local BMW dealer would meet or beat Chattanooga pricing if I went that route.

    I think I was quoted $400 for labor, I believe that included some crank mods for better oiling to help prolong life. I was planning on tackling the job myself until I was told $400. This is from ZipTy racing, who ran the 449/511 racing, and according to our own Tim, is the guru.

    2 other options.
    1. Buy another motor, new from Speedbrain for ~$2500, or used for under $1000 when they come up
    Tim got his 449 motor off ebay for $600ish I think he said.

    2. Talk to ZipTy racing in California and send them the motor. Shipping won't be free, but less than $3800 round trip I am sure

    Good Luck. Once I get more information about my motor rebuild in the coming weeks I will share.
    Matt
    Matt you must type faster than I do. I do alot of rewriting re-explaining and adding words and so on.
    Thanks for stepping in here. I hope your project is coming along good and thanks for giving us the prices for what you are doing here it's a great help and valued information.

    I payed 1630.00 dollars for my TC449 engine dropped at my door complete with the entire engine and clutch lever and hose and slave cylinder like new with approximately 10 hours on it from a 2011 TC449 front end wrecked bike. Everthing usable was parted out from this bike and sold except for the forks and front wheel.

  8. #5

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    Thanks for the quick response, you have given me hope.


    I am not sure how bad things are inside the motor, it was running with an odd break in power once the revs got up a bit. Power on the bike is usually very good. The problem seemed to come and go, but I was able to get the bike back home. I noticed coolant on my boot, so there was some kind of leak or overflow. I told the tech about it, but they tried the bike and thought that it was compression related.


    I guess that my next step will be to call the Husky dealer per your advice. There is one in Greenville which is only a couple of hours away.

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  10. #6
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    Mike,
    ebay has Athena top end overhaul gasket sets or complete engine overhaul sets for a good deal. I would pull the head to take a look but before i did that first at the very least do a compression test or better yet a differential leak down test of the top end. With a leak down test and the piston located at Top dead center, ( there is a threaded plug in the left center case under the crankshaft. If you remove the skid plate and take this plug out you can turn the engine over with the spark plug out with the rear wheel and there is a hole in the crankshaft that can be seen through this whole in the case and you can lock the crankshaft at TDC with proper sized pin punch or get the special screw plug they sell specifically for this application from a dealer BMW or Husky. I made one with a metric bolt and turned down the tip to a smaller diameter on the end on my lathe to make one of these screws but it was recently misplaced in my shop and I can't find it. The pin punch works just fine though. If you do a leak down test you will know immediately if it's the rings, intake valves or exhaust valves or a blown head gasket because you can hear it leaking either out of the headpipe,intake throttle body or see it bubble in the radiator if its a head gasket issue. Plus you can actually read the percentage of leakdown right off of the gauge if its blow by past the rings or anything else and can hear it come out the oil filler plug on the crankcase if it's rings, or out the exhaust or intake, if its valves. Simple test. Just need the right adaptor for the smaller thread size of the sparkplug. Which will come with or can be purchased with the tester.

    I check mine like this every now and then and have always used it on my race car engines for years as this is the most accurate way to find out what is going on before tearing into the engine. A standard compression test although very common and popular isn't an approved method for aircraft engines. I know we're not talking about an airplane engine here but these little engines are a bit more advanced than your average piston engine of 1970s technology in a light private airplane. A simple compression test may be used by a mechanic on an airplane engine if he likes to waste time but the results are not allowed to be entered into the aircrafts log book entry. Only the results of a differential leakdown test can be logged into the books and this is how they would determine if a cylinder assembly needs to be replaced before catastrophic failure or it results in excessive power loss.

    I am an FAA Licenced Aviation Maintenance Technician, rated in both Airframe and Powerplants. I have been an A&P mechanic for over 20 years but I don't work on airplanes anymore. I weld for the US Border Patrol instead.

    Try this before tearing into it, it would be worth the investment up front to have one of these $75 to $100 dollar leak down testers in your tool box anyway and it could save you hundreds of dollars later. you can use it on any engine you might own. Just need a source of compressed air to operate this device. It'll pay for itself the first time you use it from what you have said about your 3800.00 quote.

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    Tim you're the man!!!
    I'm glad you ride a BMW / Husky.
    I've learned more about my bike from reading your posts over the years than from anywhere else.
    Thanks for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm with us, much appreciated, keep it up.

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    I do not think at 70hrs the bike needs a crank and piston unless it has been abused. Yes dealer specs this but it is BS and is there on their service spec sheet to cover themselves from when it was being raced by many. Look for another reason for the erratic running and maybe just a good service is in order. As Tim says first look to a leakdown or compression test. Dealers are not referred to a Stealers for nothing!

  14. #9
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    G'day Mike,
    Some advice from an Engine Recondition-er of nearly 30 years experience (Like Tim 15 with aviation), assumption is the mother of all fuck-ups - your dealer has already failed the test, dump him. If you do find you need engine work follow Tim's advice and use Ty Racing, experience and knowledge of this sort is priceless and will save you money in the end through swift and accurate diagnosis.

    1.Write down the PRECISE symptoms and give Ty Racing a call for their opinion. They may be able to refer you to someone near by for initial diagnosis if it is beyond you.

    No one could be expected to diagnose your problem from the description you have posted. For example is the coolant loss related? this is a total loss system and will find it's own coolant level just above the coolant tubes, if you set of on your ride with coolant above this level, as with all such systems, it will expel coolant as temperature rises. The power loss you mention for example if this was only occurring intermittently at mid-range under load? and idle was fine could be as simple as a spark plug/low fuel pressure or more complicated. My point is detail ... detail ... detail ... diagnose ... diagnose ... diagnose = save ... save ... save!

    Regards,
    Campbell

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  16. #10

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    I spoke to the dealer today (they still have the bike). They are going to do the leak down test for me. They said that I was going "back into the cue" so it would be a couple of days. Not sure why I have to wait again other than my confession that I did not have the money for the full rebuild. I will post back when I get the results of the test. If there is a loss of compression, I will call Ty racing and the nearest Husqvarna dealer and go from there.
    Thanks for all of the help,
    Mike

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  18. #11
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    No doubt!
    Mike you have a few things to do now. As you can see the members on here are from all over the world. We are all a band of brothers. We've been to battle before, each of us. With and without the stealerships help or their costly B.S. assistance. We have spent many nights in the garage with the electrical bills going up. Some of us arguing with the wives about that fact and I'm sure you can get this sorted out. We possess a sheetload of knowledge amongst us, much of it documented on this website. It would behoove you to go back aways into these threads.

    Also, As Campbell said above. This could also be a fuel delivery problem if it's occasionally doing this or it's intermittent ! You would be surprised how much crap can be in the bottom of anybodies gas cans and fuel tank. I know it's a pain in the ass but. That said take off the rear subframe and pull the tank so you can check the strainer filter screen on the fuel pump. Or at least remove the fuel delivery hose and do a pressure check of the fuel pump when its hot and when its cold. An inline fuel pressure gauge can be easily installed in the hose with a few fittings, hose clamps and a gauge from an auto parts retailer for this test.

    Did the bike sit for any length of time before this started rearing its symtoms. Have you drained the fuel system and changed the fuel out for fresh gasoline. If so and it sits any more than a few months depending on the area you live in you should add a little fuel stabilizer like "Stabil" to that new fuel. I always use about 20% of the recommended amount to every can of gas I buy. Along with some octane booster. Remember the US pump gasoline has some percentage of ethanol in it and it can be the worst thing for the bikes fuel system. It is hydroscopic and can separate from the gasoline itself causing condensation or absorb moisture out of the air. Not Good!

    Campbell said it above also the dealer is trying to rape you.. I hope he plans on using some grease that doesn't leave a chapped burning skidmark.

    A few simple tests are in order for you. Don't be shy. if you have any questions we are here for whatever you have to ask.

    Thanks everybody for ringing in here also. I have to go now and look for holes cut in the US Border Fence I have a few being repaired right now. It was a busy weekend for the Drug Cartels.

    and 1 last thing...

    Whats up? BiGDoM? How did your kid do in the Roof of Africa qualifier and event?

  19. #12

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    The fuel could be an issue. It is not uncommon for my bike to sit for a few weeks before I can get out. The fuel stabilizer is a good idea, that is something that I should have been paying attention too.


    I can't express how much I appreciate you all taking the time to share detailed information. Speaking as a guy whose mechanical experience is limited to changing oil and tires and bolting on a few accessories, I feel pretty far out of my element, but I am much more optimistic after hearing from some fellow riders who know what they are doing.

  20. #13
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    Mike,
    Get the results of the leakdown test written and post it to us on here. Make them explain themselves to you directly. Preferably while it is hooked up and it is actually under pressure. 60PSI max is a good pressure to use to start with. it takes less than a few minutes for this test to be performed once hooked up..Depending on what brand or type leakdown tester they have, some like my own will actually read the percentage leakdown off the second gauge, others will require that you use a calculator to get the actual leakdown percentage. Stand there and listen to where the air is leaking and out of what hole basically. If they won't allow you to do this then pick the bike up and tell them you are flatass taking it to some other shop who will let you witness the results of this test.....

    Let us know, they seem to be dragging their feet if they put you on the back burner, A clear sign they don't know what they are doing IMHO. Be sure to make it clear that you are available for this test and make it very clear you want to be their.. Don't take any BS and them crying about their shop Insurance rules or not, or get it out of there.

  21. #14
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    G'day Mike,
    Me again - just a word of caution re leak down test. I have yet to replace my piston so not sure if it only runs one compression ring or not but I wouldn't be surprised. The point being a single comp ring setup will leak down faster than a two, so test equipment/specifications must be model specific or you will be led up the garden path. Second unless the test shows up something blinding proceed with caution, low compression is more likely to effect starting and idle. Remember check the simple/cheap/common first before moving in a logical order through to OMG
    1. Change Fuel
    2. Change Spark Plug
    3. Check for loose connections - pull them apart and check
    If this doesn't sort it you have probably hit your particular knowledge wall
    4. Have the dealer or reputable shop run a scan tool and check for fault codes
    5. Have them test your O2 sensor if you are still running in low power mode (not relevant in high power mode)(I believe 02 history can be read with scan tool if so handy for intermittent problem)
    6. Have them test your fuel pressure (not sure if they run a pressure sensor if so it 'should' be logged as a fault)
    7. Leak down/comp test
    8. Regardless of above test results have them check Valve clearance in particular Intake clearance

    Should you need engine work pull it out yourself - get a mate to help - advise here is free etc it will save you a heap and you learn ++++

    Re your 1st post comment all high performance bikes are high maintenance, these are no better or worse than anything else, their is no such thing as a free ride!!

    Ooops! nearly forgot check the not so obvious such as ignition cut out - my beloved son once decided he did not like the position of my start/stop switch on the bars and decided to rotate the switch block initially resulting in your precise symptoms and then a walk home (Justice) when it wouldn't start. (Throttle cable slightly depressing kill switch)

    All the best,
    Campbell

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  23. #15
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    [QUOTE=Campbell;1440145]G'day Mike,
    Me again - just a word of caution re leak down test. I have yet to replace my piston so not sure if it only runs one compression ring or not but I wouldn't be surprised.

    Should you need engine work pull it out yourself - get a mate to help - advise here is free etc it will save you a heap and you learn ++++[END QUOTE]

    Campbell, There is only 2 rings on these pistons, only 1 compression ring and an oil control ring.

    These short little fat, wide bisquit pistons don't have any room for a pair of compression rings. Unless the wrist pin was retained with a pair of pin buttons and the groove for the oil control ring was laying into a groove cut into the pin buttons themselves. They are very short on space in so far as height thats for sure.

    I had to go this pin boss route on one of my old 7.1" long rod stroker 604" Hemi's years ago. After mortgaging my fricken house to build it. Thank god I've gotten back into cheaper toys and dirt bikes!!

  24. #16

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    Hi Mike, I don't have any advice on what could be the low power issue, but I have my own 70 hour service saga as well.
    I got my engine looked at a couple months ago because it was past the 70 hour recommended engine service, it's done 85 hours and was running sweet. Pulling off the head, we found at least 20 or more stroke marks up and down in the side of the bore where the piston had grabbed at one stage, and the rings were badly worn. The marks on the bore would have worn though the Nikasil coating as it's only microns thick. Not sure of the cause. So it's new piston and bore for me. I considered a new engine from speedbrain but have worked out that it will still only be around half the cost to replace the bore and piston. The rest of the engine looks perfect, if there was anything else wrong, it would probably be more cost effective to replace the engine for $AU3500 including 500euro shipping. I'm getting parts shipped from Max BMW which is heaps cheaper than obtaining them though dealers in Australia and already have a complete Athena Gasket kit which has every gasket and seal you need for the engine. I just hope I get the parts in time for the race I want to do in July.
    My mechanic had a another guy come in before me with a G450X and the engine had completely seized at 70 hours, including big end bearing, but that could have been an oil issue. I change my oil after every race which is about 5 hours of engine running, and I run a full synthetic 10w40 oil Penrite brand which is best for my climate. Anything less than full synthetic doesn't last in this engine.
    So, even if your bike feels good at the 70 hour mark, it's probably worth just having a look at to check that everything is ok and while you're at it you may as well throw in a new piston, especially if you're racing. These pistons are so short to reduce weight and maximise power, which comes at the cost of more frequent maintenace, hence why it is more suited to off road competition rather than a daily commute. If you're not flogging your engine racing you can probably stretch out the piston change, but for me I would rather not risk a rod though my case.
    Recommended piston changes for a Honda CRF450 - equivilant Honda enduro bike, is even less at 50 hours. I think the Yamaha WRs are similar.

  25. #17
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    70 hours?
    My usual rides go for 10 hours so that means I only have 7 rides.

    I had the bike rebuilt before and it would of had well over 70 hour's and going strong.
    It only got done to be safe but the parts that came out still had much more life left.

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    Josh, I use Max BMW for most parts however your cheapest piston price is Pro-X or Wossner look under Husky and they are 13:1 Halls-Cycles in US (Husky) are cheaper than Max for some parts eg crank @ $400

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    Fantastic news!

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    Just thought I would pass on an update before I have to leave the country for a couple of weeks.
    I am still waiting on the dealer, they said that they would email me the results of the leak down test. I will pass on the info when I get it from them.

  29. #21

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    70 hours?
    My usual rides go for 10 hours so that means I only have 7 rides.

    I had the bike rebuilt before and it would of had well over 70 hour's and going strong.
    It only got done to be safe but the parts that came out still had much more life left.
    Oh yeah I have heard of bikes going twice that long without being touched but for me I don't think I'll risk it especially after finding what I found. Everything else seems perfect which is why I didn't want to fork out for a new engine. For me I'll be looking at it every 70 and while the engine is out and the head off, I'll put a new piston in. Other guys I ride with do this religiously. If I was doing shorter races I may stretch it out untill something doesn't seem right, but my races last 6 hours and there's nothing worse than having a mechanical faliure 3 hours in and DNFing. I guess it all depends on the usage.
    Josh, I use Max BMW for most parts however your cheapest piston price is Pro-X or Wossner
    I would have got a Pro-X piston, but as far as I'm aware they only do A,B and C oversizes and I need a standard size because I am getting a brand new bore so I thought I would just go an OEM piston to match the OEM bore. On the next change when the bore has a bit of wear in it I'll go a pro-x.
    I got stuffed around a bit when I first tried to get parts. I originally ordered though bikebandit.com and the order sat there for over a week and then they cancelled it because it wasn't in stock and it would take 28+ days to get in. So that wasted a bit of time. Their prices also don't include a 20% tax that they slap on when you go through checkout to pay for it so they look real cheap, but they are a bit more expensive than first thought. In Australia, by law that has to be stated with the list price, so that took me a bit by suprise.
    I had also ordered a Pro-x piston though e-bay thinking it was a standard size but I missed the 'B' on the end of the part number and that sat for 2 weeks before they told me they didn't have B size in stock but then I replied that I thought it was for a standard size but it wasn't, so that got cancelled too. So it's put me back a few months but I'll eventually get there.

  30. #22
    Tims1572's Avatar
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    Josh, Read my oil post before running in your new motor. I didn't know your engine was apart. Did you buy the 477cc cylinder upgrade and new slug?

  31. #23
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    I am just going to enjoy riding mine until it goes BANG this time then I will worry about it

    I had a ktm 530 and the gearbox went bang at 500 kms.

  32. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
    Sent you a PM / private notification.
    DoM, I didn't get any PM in my private notifications. My box is empty except for the last message with the trip and news of your kid doing the qualifier from a few weeks back in Lesotho.

  33. #25
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    To many other projects DoM? Enjoy your fathers day, kick back, have a beer and make your kids cook something nice for you. Atleast you found the gremlin in your electrical system.

  34. #26

    Real Name
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    Josh, Read my oil post before running in your new motor. I didn't know your engine was apart. Did you buy the 477cc cylinder upgrade and new slug?
    Tim, Just read your oil post, good info there and I will take note. It might be that the 15w oil I used for a short time may have done the damage who knows. Will post photos at some stage. Yeah I've been pretty busy with work and the bike has just been sitting in my mates shed in bits waiting for these parts. I did think about the 477cc cylinder upgrade but came to the conclusion that I already had more than enough power in 450cc's for my skill or lack of it another thing that swayed me away from it that more power would put even more strain on an already high maintenance engine, and I've already got enough work with the stock bore, so I think I'll leave it for now. Would be fun though I'm still in awe of how hard this engine pulls, I can't imagine the big bore!
    I've done a few other mods too, new blackbird seat, steering stabiliser, which I have had a run with already - both make a huge difference, and now serviced suspension, itching to get it all back together again, would be like bran nue! Next will be the oil breather mod...

  35. #27
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    Josh, I know what you're saying. I am always looking for way to much horsepower, it must be a genetic defect from my dragrace cars. Custom Stroker Harleys V-Twins too. Gas prices catch up with me everytime I get in my 66 Plymouth. Nothing else does though.

    Now I went and put a Power Commander 5 on my G450X downloaded a couple different ZipTY racings 449 Husky race maps and added an PCV Autotune set up to go with it, so I can build my own fuel maps after setting up the target air fuel ratios I want it to run at. It tunes itself everytime I get on it now and I can actually look at the fuel trims with a laptop each time I ride and load them as changes to the current fuel map I'm running and guess what? IT FRICKEN RIPS and will bite back if your not paying very close attention. Like all of my toys will but this one is the only one that has caused me to have surgeries and broken bones. I'll never learn.

    My Dad says all the time, I must be suicidal but thank God I procrastinate alot. He said that again yesterday infact, on Fathers day. I tell him, "I can be that way, I don't have any kids"..
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  36. #28
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    Very nice!
    I also like my toys and it is a great hobby.
    I got a Daytona eliminator 21 from California with a bbc 454.
    I have been thinking about a ls efi so I built one, it has been taken out to 383 with the stroker crank and many new bits.
    it runs fantastic being efi and it is good for me being idiot proof
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  37. #29
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  38. #30
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    Very nice Joe,
    I did the boat thing when I lived up in the San Francisco bay area. I had a flat bottoms ( Sanger) then got a Sanger pickle fork Hydro, blown Hemi, Dart heads, Kieth Black Water block. It got too expensive for my income and the only thing it blew was my bank accounts. That was back in the early eighties. Still a Hemi Guy though. The Indy Maxx Aluminum 572" Hemi in my 70 Challenger makes 930 hp. and runs in the low to mid 8's at about 168mph with a 1.16 60ft time. I've had it since 1978. It's being sold now.

    Now I'm down here in the desert and the closest thing to a water crossing you could drive accross. The water only shows up during the oncoming Monsoon seasons. No lakes, no water.

    The LS conversion is a great idea. It will take a large amount of boost with very little modifications and live through almost anything. I'm helping my neighbor do 1 with a pair of turbos on it coming up here pretty quick into a 67 Chevy 2 Nova. He's still sourcing parts. He can only afford it now because his son just bought a house and is moving out just up around the corner.
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  39. #31
    SchillerM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotboxbalIystar View Post
    Mike the one thing I can tell you is to listen to your dealer. The reason they charge big bucks is because they always do the job right. If this is beyond your tinkering knowledge the best route to go is to trust your dealer. I'm curious as to where all this stealership stuff comes from.

    A certified bmw mechanic will never steer you wrong.

    Mike I'm sorry you're having troubles, but a rebuild is a rebuild.
    Part of Stealership is the fact that they will just do what the book says instead of actually looking at the situation and doing whats NEEDS to be done.
    The book says to replace pretty much everything at 70 hours, and its not needed.

    On my BMW twins they recommend valve adjustments at 6000 miles. I last checked mine after 15k and they were still in spec. Dealer charges couple hundred dollars for it. Takes about 30 minutes to do... And don't get me started on the car dealerships!

    Matt

    I like my dealership a lot, but won't have them work on my bikes.
    2009 G450X - Akrapovic, Dirt & SM Wheels; 2007 G650X Country - Remus, Lowered 3" - Wifes ride; 2003 R1100S BoxerCup Replika - Laser, Ohlins, Carbon goodies; (FOR SALE) 1999 R1100S - Remus, Ohlins; 1989 K100RS - Remus, Fox 

  40. Likes Campbell, bello650 liked this post
  41. #32
    SchillerM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tims1572 View Post
    "hotboxbalIystar" was removed from this website a year ago "TWICE" for being a Troll. He himself nearly took this site down from his actions last year and it took several months for it to recover. It still hasn't returned to its old original useful status and here he is again. Telling all of us do it yourselfers how fair and honest the dealers certified BMW mechanics all are. O.K.
    Wow is all I can say. I guess you guys won't be seeing much of my posts here anymore. Sorry.

    Matt, thanks for quoting his recent post. I had him on my ignore/blocked list and will keep it that way and would not have noticed he was back.

    This site will be going down hill from here due to this recent change.
    Tim, sorry was unaware. I didn't mean to feed the troll.

    You are too knowledgeable to leave us, screw him!
    Matt
    2009 G450X - Akrapovic, Dirt & SM Wheels; 2007 G650X Country - Remus, Lowered 3" - Wifes ride; 2003 R1100S BoxerCup Replika - Laser, Ohlins, Carbon goodies; (FOR SALE) 1999 R1100S - Remus, Ohlins; 1989 K100RS - Remus, Fox 

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  43. #33
    smokin's Avatar
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    Sorry guy's I didn't know.
    You guys know your stuff Tim, Dom, Campbell.
    I definitely know who to listen to.
    I will just ignore like he is not here.

    To the subject.

    My next rebuild time is a new engine, I will be sending a email to speedbrain.
    Why rebuild a flogged engine when you can get a new one.

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  45. #34
    bmwbeej's Avatar
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    Come on boys this is turning to shit again! I want to read about the 450x when I come on here.Not Bitching and talking shit.
    I thought everyone had learnt their lesson last time... Let the tosser have his opinion and as you have said before there is no need to reply.

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